Day 123: Repelling in Ras al-Khaimah

In continuation of Kate having the hook-up, her and Andy (her Andrew) took us repelling in Ras al-Khaimah. A quick drive through the desert and we were in the mountains (kinda) for an afternoon of walking down the sides of a canyon. We didn’t have time to rock-climb in Thailand, so I was super excited to get on a wall, even if it was just to do the easy (sometimes most fun) part! Just like TJ, Andy knew exactly what he was doing (it’s his job, after all!) and was super professional as he guided us down the canyon walls.

Guess who made everyone pose for scenario pictures again? (It’s me! It’s me!) Only we weren’t as organized, and I forgot what each scenario was… Maybe being silly in climbing harnesses for all of them?

After repelling, we headed out of Ras al-Khaimah to drive and spend the night in Abu Dhabi for some sightseeing the next day. The normally two hour drive turned into five because we couldn’t find a gas station ANYWHERE! On empty, we were a little nervous, driving in the middle of the desert, but finally found one with Andy’s (Kate’s Andy) help using the internet at home. Whew! We were in the clear, until Andrew (my Andrew) took a turn behind the wheel and learned the hard way there are speed bumps on the expressway. We were in the midst of finding our way back to the right expressway to Abu Dhabi and all of a sudden the car is airborne and Andrew is freaking out out in the front seat apologizing to Kate over and over again, who was also apologizing on behalf of the UAE for the crazy amount of speed bumps without warning paint, lights, or even signs. Andrew couldn’t stop referencing The Office, whenever he talked about there actually being a speed bump in the middle of a highway...

Day 122: Dune-bashing in Ras al-Khaimah

Yep! We went dune-bashing in Ras al-Khaimah! What on earth is dune-bashing? An extraordinarily fun version of off-roading done in the desert, that’s what! Kate had the hook-up, and that hook-up was her friend, TJ who is actually a member of the Abu Dhabi Dune-bashing Club! He picked us up, let a lot of air out of his tires, and then took us up and down sand dunes, sometimes stopping right on the cliffs leaving us dangling from our seat-belts and with the same feeling you get when you’re on a roller-coaster dangling high above the ground face-down. That being said, he was a super safe driver, not only did he know exactly what he was doing, he tried to educate us a little about driving and bashing in the desert as we went up and down the dunes. (You rock, TJ!)

After bashing, we went for (Yemeni) Mandi.

This glorious dish is simple, yet fantastic. The chicken is cooked in a stone oven underground and then served on top of a huge pile of rice. The experts (Kate, Andrew, and TJ) told us to get the yogurt. We followed suit, dumping the not so spicy tomato based sauce into the yogurt and then pouring it on the rice or dipping the chicken into it. I’m getting so accustomed to eating with my fingers, I’m not at the moment prepared to use a fork. Good thing, we have a ways to go before I find that I’ll need to use one!

FYI: Andrew and I (being the foodies that we are, er, that Andrew has totally turned me into) are keeping a Pinterest board (Liz and Andrew eat their way around the world) of all of our favorite foods we have tried on the road! We’re trying to include recipes as well so we don’t forget what we loved and have the motivation to make it all when we get back home (you know, wherever home may be in a year)! If you’re feeling adventurous give one of the dishes a whirl- but please let us know how it turned out, as we haven’t had the pleasure of trying these recipes out yet!

Day 120: One Fish, Two Fish

I wish my New Year’s Day was spent wandering through the fish market in Ras al-Khaimah, but alas, I’m cheating on the blog for the first time because… My real New Year’s Day was spent suffering from the latest round of food poisoning. One last parting gift from India? Undercooked chicken in the desert? Something slipped into my drink when I wasn’t looking at the party? We were all skeptical. Andrew was tempted to take me to the hospital, but I refused. I did, however, accept his charcoal tablets and electrolyte mix. They worked. We picked up the charcoal tablets in India after Andrew was sick, they are officially my new favorite travel staple. I was better by the time everyone else in the house woke up from their afternoon New Years Day naps.

So, this cheating post is from another evening in Ras al-Khaimah. I thought it would be much more enjoyable than watching a video of one of us sick or sleeping again! James, one of Kate’s friends in RAK (short for Ras al-Khaimah) entertained us, and probably those working in the market with a little bit of a tour. Before I moved to Korea, I would get a little squirmish about walking through a fish market. Slippery tentacles especially tended to creep me out. Now, I quite enjoy them. They are much more fun than a sterile American grocery store, and if you’re going to eat meat (or in this case, fish) you should be comfortable with the process. And if you’re not comfortable, as sometimes is the case with myself, you eat more vegetables. It’s a win win!

Day 119: New Year’s Eve in the UAE

New Year’s Eve in the UAE! Kate lives in Ras al-Khaima, one of the seven emirates. It’s name means “Top of the Tent” and offers lots of sand (like many of the emirates do), which made for a perfect party in the desert! We spent the day relaxing at Kate and Andrew’s (yes, another Andrew) apartment, and then caravanned with friends out to a random spot in the desert. Cars were left near the expressway that wouldn’t be able to cross through the desert. Air was let out of tires of the cars which were able to drive on the sand. Tents were set up. Chicken and lamb was roasted. Drinks were shared. Hugs were given at midnight followed by lanterns being set afloat to bring in the new year! Happy 2013!

The night was a lot of fun. It actually reminded me of a field party in Kentucky. Only with sand dunes. And a really diverse group of expats and Emirates. And the obvious, that it wasn’t in Kentucky. The conversations were awesome, everything from what it’s like to travel through India, how the UAE has changed in the past ten years, trying to converse with a man from Bangladesh, who couldn’t speak English, and even a rousing debate about world economics with a currency trader.

This last conversation led to a very important lesson that I had to learn the hard way. In the UAE, women do not initiate conversation with Emirati men. Had I known this, before I went up to an entire group of them to ask their opinion “If they would rather live in China or the USA in the future, which would they choose?” I probably wouldn’t have  had to demand Andrew to change places with me and stand a little closer after one of the Emirati men copped a feel. Seriously, this happened. And it was after I told the Emirati men I was with my husband! – Stop freaking out, we’re not married, we just told everyone in India and the UAE that we were. Furthermore, I was standing right next to Andrew when this happened, but apparently they thought that I was fair game because I initiated conversation with them. Kate later said that the currency trader (an Emirati himself) should have known better than to allow me to approach the men on my own.

When Andrew demanded to know who did it, I told him to let it go. The “it’s your second night in a new country” feeling kicked in, and it wasn’t worth a confrontation. Also, in the midst of that same conversation with the currency trader, he had insisted that women were treated with respect in the UAE, and in Dubai, they were considered equals. I rolled my eyes at him when he said this, and after my bum was grabbed, I wanted to march back up to him and say “If women are treated with respect and considered equal in your country, sir, then why are your Emirati homeboys grabbing my bum after I initiate a conversation about ECONOMICS?”

Unfortunately – coincidentally – the currency trader was no where to be found after he insisted I ask the Emirates their opinion on our economic debate.

It was a lesson learned. an interesting night, and start to the new year!

Day 118: Goodbye, Goa

Andrew and I had a few hours in the morning before we had to head to the airport for our flight out of India and into the U.A.E. We walked down to the beach, ate at our favorite ‘German Bakery’ (ran by a really sweet Nepalese couple), and picked up some Bebinca (a Goan desert we forgot to try together) to taste with Kate when we arrived in the U.A.E.

We were excited to get out of the country and spend New Year’s Eve in the U.A.E. until we arrived to the airport and discovered our first flight was delayed and then we were told we would be able to get on the flight out of Mumbai the following night. As in New Years Eve arriving at the airport. “No, that’s not possible.” Andrew said firmly to the airline clerk. We were told to wait. Andrew was stressed we weren’t going to be able to celebrate New Year’s Eve in the desert. I waited, willing the airline to ‘make it work.’ And then, magically, it did. We were able to get onto the earlier flight to Mumbai, made our flight from there to Dubai, and not only were we reunited with Kate, but Biggie was waiting for us outside of the airport as well!

Biggie is Kate’s adorable dog that stayed with us for a few weeks in Korea when Kate was out of the country. We both got a little attached to him. I really wanted to get a dog in Korea, but Andrew wouldn’t let me. Not really at all, but when I miss my family’s dog, or get frustrated at my lifestyle that doesn’t include a dog of my own, I take it out on Andrew and “blame him” for not letting me have a dog.  This gets him all riled up, because he wants a dog just as much as I do. (Maybe more, but don’t tell him I admitted it!) Alas, He was/is right: Korea’s small apartments, and now, traveling around the world just aren’t conducive to having a dog.  I digress. Point is, we were excited to stay with Kate, and even more excited to stay with Kate AND Biggie!

Day 116: Old Goa

Old Goa: Church of St. Francis of Assisi, The Basilica of Born Jesus, which holds the remains of St. Francis Xavier, and St. Augustine’s tower. These are just a few of what Old Goa has to offer, and what we saw when we took a break from the beach to do some sightseeing in the old Portugese town. Again, I was expecting something different, more of an old town atmosphere than an area that was seemingly limited to the different churches of the past, only some of them still being used today. As much as I enjoy walking through different temples and trying to pick up details of different religions, it felt very comfortable being able to walk through a couple of Catholic churches, and then climb the ruins of another. I also appreciated the collision of religions, displayed by the ropes of marigolds (Hindu practice) draped over an altar outside of the Basilica of Born Jesus.

Built in 1861 by the Portugese (who had colonized Goa in the 15th century until a plague hit, and the city was abandoned in the 18th century), the Church of St. Francis of Assisi is a Roman Catholic Church featuring frescos of his life and a main alter dedicated to him, Jesus, and Saints Peter and Paul. Pews have been removed (when I’m not sure) and burial markers lie in their place. I’m not sure if I’ve ever been in a gutted out church like this before. It felt… empty, which is a shame, because the walls and side altars and the vastness of the church was all quite stunning.

The Basilica of Born Jesus is a short sprint down the road from the Church of St. Francis Assisi. It was completed in 1605, and is not only the first minor basilica in India, but it is also the best example of Baroque architecture in India. Although the facade is quite ornate, the interior wasn’t equally so, at least not the side walls of the church. However, it is a fully functioning church and held quite a few more people, pilgrims even, who had traveled to see the church, but more importantly to pay respects to the remains of St. Francis Xavier who is kept inside the Basilica.

Interesting, and slightly morbid, is that his body was originally buried on a beach in China, before being moved to Malacca for two years before again being exhumed and moved to Goa. It is said that his body was as “fresh” as it was the day he was buried in Malacca. A few pieces of his body have been removed to be put on display around the world- Rome, mostly. But the best story- again- story (I’m not entirely sure it’s true) is that a woman snuck into the church when his body was on display and bit off his toe. It is said that officials were able to track down who stole the toe from the trail of blood (from the toe) that led to her house. Crazy, right?!

His body is displayed every 10 years- the last display was in December of 2004, so only one more year and his body is scheduled to be displayed for your pilgrimage pleasure. Until then, his body is housed in a glass case inside of this tomb, below. There were so many tourists and pilgrims taking their picture in front of the tomb that I didn’t stay long and only snapped this photo as I walked out into a tiny museum like hall of religious paintings, his original casket (what a tiny person he must have been, because that box was not big at all!) and gift shop.

Our last stop in Old Goa was to see the ruins of the Church of St. Augustine. The ruins include a four story belfry tower, eight chapels, four altars, and an expansive convent. It was big. It was also quite fun to climb up and take in different views. Kate was my muse for the afternoon as we all went in different directions to explore, yet kept bumping back into each other at different turns.

And then, we played “scenario.” Scenario is a game that one of my favorite people in the world taught me. (Hi, Lindsay!) To play, you shout out an emotion or a place or activity and you act it out instead of just smiling or dropping a peace sign (like you do in Korea). 

When we got back to Calangute, I made Kate pose with the New Year ‘Old Man.’ We saw quite a few of these ‘old men’ around town and from my understanding- a man is made for good luck for the new year. Each man holds a bucket asking for donations- which, if you donate something, you get good luck as well? And then on New Year’s Eve, the man is burned, allowing you to have a fresh start for the new year, but will return next year to take away your misgivings or bad deeds or something like that. (We asked about this to different people three different times, and the answers were a little confusing. Basically. It’s a tradition. For the New Year. For luck. Is probably the simplest, most straightforward interpretation of it all.)

Day 115: More of the Same in Goa

If you’re not one for beaches, you’re probably bored out of your mind with these last few days of the blog. (Sorry!) After almost four months of travel, Andrew and I were so happy to be bored (but not really) at the beach. I don’t know why I was surprised by Goa, because after nearly five weeks in India, I should know better by now that nothing in India is going to be what I expect it to be. Nothing. Goa certainly fit this bill. First of all, we made plans to be in Goa over Christmas totally unaware that it was the high season and rates for rooms nearly quadrupled in price. It was like Mumbai all over again! We were picturing something a little more Portugese as well. A small town on the beach. Maybe some cobblestones in town and colorful store fronts. Calangute was not this. It was pretty much just like any other beach front. A small main drag led to the beach, and restaurants with chairs dotted the waterfront.

Despite the guidebooks recommending Calangute, we wondered if we were in the wrong spot. We were also surprised by the crazy number of Russian tourists and as I mentioned before Indian “dude-bros” (this is what Kate and Andrew referred to them as, and I found it fitting). Basically, Indian men go to Goa to take a break from the traditional rules in society. I didn’t see one (NOT ONE!) Indian woman on the beach we were at, which was a little creepy. Just lots of groups of Indian men in their 20s and 30s staring at the women who were on the beach. With the news, and reports of western women in the past getting into trouble in Goa, it was actually the first time that I felt uncomfortable on the trip.

Unfortunately, my discomfort was totally justified when a couple of guys came up to us (Kate, Andrew, and myself) in the water to get in on our football toss. When Kate left the water, I kept my eye on her as they asked for a photo. Not surprising. But then one of the guys tried to cop a feel and Kate threw up her arms in defense, shook her head “No” and walked away. As Andrew and I started walking in from the water, a random tourist walking by shook his finger and head in disdain at the offender. When we got to the small group of guys, as if nothing happened, they held up their camera to take a picture with me and Andrew. I shook my head at them and mimed him touching Kate inappropriately and yelled at him. The strangest part of it all was how genuinely caught off guard he and his friends seemed to be. As if they didn’t understand what the problem was trying to touch a woman. in sensitive areas. in a public place. It was infuriating, yet I found myself completely incredulous at his reaction, especially considering the (completely justifiable) uproar against violence against women in India at the moment! FOR SHAME Indian dude-bro! FOR SHAME!

Day 114: Andrew reads the “news”

Our dear friend, Kate got into Goa in the wee hours of the morning. We stayed up late, chatting, and then slept in late before getting coffee and being entertained by Andrew reading the “news.” Then we spent another day on the beach, but this time with a GIRLFRIEND! It was pretty great! I can’t even begin to tell you how much I miss my girlfriends from home (both Kentucky and Korea!)… so having at least one of them around again was the perfect Christmas present.