Day 118: Goodbye, Goa

Andrew and I had a few hours in the morning before we had to head to the airport for our flight out of India and into the U.A.E. We walked down to the beach, ate at our favorite ‘German Bakery’ (ran by a really sweet Nepalese couple), and picked up some Bebinca (a Goan desert we forgot to try together) to taste with Kate when we arrived in the U.A.E.

We were excited to get out of the country and spend New Year’s Eve in the U.A.E. until we arrived to the airport and discovered our first flight was delayed and then we were told we would be able to get on the flight out of Mumbai the following night. As in New Years Eve arriving at the airport. “No, that’s not possible.” Andrew said firmly to the airline clerk. We were told to wait. Andrew was stressed we weren’t going to be able to celebrate New Year’s Eve in the desert. I waited, willing the airline to ‘make it work.’ And then, magically, it did. We were able to get onto the earlier flight to Mumbai, made our flight from there to Dubai, and not only were we reunited with Kate, but Biggie was waiting for us outside of the airport as well!

Biggie is Kate’s adorable dog that stayed with us for a few weeks in Korea when Kate was out of the country. We both got a little attached to him. I really wanted to get a dog in Korea, but Andrew wouldn’t let me. Not really at all, but when I miss my family’s dog, or get frustrated at my lifestyle that doesn’t include a dog of my own, I take it out on Andrew and “blame him” for not letting me have a dog.  This gets him all riled up, because he wants a dog just as much as I do. (Maybe more, but don’t tell him I admitted it!) Alas, He was/is right: Korea’s small apartments, and now, traveling around the world just aren’t conducive to having a dog.  I digress. Point is, we were excited to stay with Kate, and even more excited to stay with Kate AND Biggie!

Day 117: Mackie’s Saturday night bazaar

We spent one last day on the beach (big surprise) and then went to Mackie’s Saturday night bazaar – which, forgive the pun – was more than a little bizarre. There were more western tourists in the market than we had seen in all of India. Food stalls sold Nepalese momos (dumplings), nachos, beer on tap, and falafel. And possibly the weirdest part of all was the cover band playing everything from old Madonna songs to Gangnam Style in the middle of the market complete with groups of ‘dude-bros’ rocking. it. out. Needless to say, it didn’t feel like India, and felt weird to be spending our last night in India there. We looped around the market picking up some knock-off sunglasses and harem pants before we headed back to Calengute to send Kate off to the airport.

Day 115: More of the Same in Goa

If you’re not one for beaches, you’re probably bored out of your mind with these last few days of the blog. (Sorry!) After almost four months of travel, Andrew and I were so happy to be bored (but not really) at the beach. I don’t know why I was surprised by Goa, because after nearly five weeks in India, I should know better by now that nothing in India is going to be what I expect it to be. Nothing. Goa certainly fit this bill. First of all, we made plans to be in Goa over Christmas totally unaware that it was the high season and rates for rooms nearly quadrupled in price. It was like Mumbai all over again! We were picturing something a little more Portugese as well. A small town on the beach. Maybe some cobblestones in town and colorful store fronts. Calangute was not this. It was pretty much just like any other beach front. A small main drag led to the beach, and restaurants with chairs dotted the waterfront.

Despite the guidebooks recommending Calangute, we wondered if we were in the wrong spot. We were also surprised by the crazy number of Russian tourists and as I mentioned before Indian “dude-bros” (this is what Kate and Andrew referred to them as, and I found it fitting). Basically, Indian men go to Goa to take a break from the traditional rules in society. I didn’t see one (NOT ONE!) Indian woman on the beach we were at, which was a little creepy. Just lots of groups of Indian men in their 20s and 30s staring at the women who were on the beach. With the news, and reports of western women in the past getting into trouble in Goa, it was actually the first time that I felt uncomfortable on the trip.

Unfortunately, my discomfort was totally justified when a couple of guys came up to us (Kate, Andrew, and myself) in the water to get in on our football toss. When Kate left the water, I kept my eye on her as they asked for a photo. Not surprising. But then one of the guys tried to cop a feel and Kate threw up her arms in defense, shook her head “No” and walked away. As Andrew and I started walking in from the water, a random tourist walking by shook his finger and head in disdain at the offender. When we got to the small group of guys, as if nothing happened, they held up their camera to take a picture with me and Andrew. I shook my head at them and mimed him touching Kate inappropriately and yelled at him. The strangest part of it all was how genuinely caught off guard he and his friends seemed to be. As if they didn’t understand what the problem was trying to touch a woman. in sensitive areas. in a public place. It was infuriating, yet I found myself completely incredulous at his reaction, especially considering the (completely justifiable) uproar against violence against women in India at the moment! FOR SHAME Indian dude-bro! FOR SHAME!

Day 114: Andrew reads the “news”

Our dear friend, Kate got into Goa in the wee hours of the morning. We stayed up late, chatting, and then slept in late before getting coffee and being entertained by Andrew reading the “news.” Then we spent another day on the beach, but this time with a GIRLFRIEND! It was pretty great! I can’t even begin to tell you how much I miss my girlfriends from home (both Kentucky and Korea!)… so having at least one of them around again was the perfect Christmas present.

Day 113: Christmas in Goa

Merry Christmas! Goa style. We slept late. We had a big breakfast (chocolate milkshake included) and we went to the beach. all. day. long. We laid around, read, sipped on fenni (a local drink made from coconut or cashews) and it was awesome. It really was the most relaxing day we have had on the whole trip. Not exactly the most traditional Christmas day, definitely not the most traditional Christmas dinner (a seafood platter with an additional order of calamari) but it was wonderful.

Day 112: Incredible India?

We were not sad about getting off of our last overnight bus in India when we arrived in Goa around six in the morning. Not. sad. at. all. Aside from the three episodes of Game of Thrones I coerced Andrew into letting us watch on the bus, it was a pretty uncomfortable ride and we were exhausted by the time we were able to check into our guesthouse later in the morning. We fell asleep watching The BBC. I was in and out of consciousness listening to updates on the poor girl trying to recover from being gang raped in New Delhi, and statistics on rape in India interspersed with Incredible !ndia tourism commercials. It got in my head.

Incredible !ndia or… Incredible India?

This is what it felt like:

We woke up around dusk and forced ourselves out to the beach (I know, life was so hard!) for dinner. Christmas Eve in Goa is one of the more random holidays I’ve celebrated- we’ve celebrated. Both of us really missed home over these holidays. Being abroad in your own apartment surrounded by friends was comforting in South Korea. Being abroad in a random hotel surrounded by Russian tourists and Indian dude-bros is not as comforting. But we were healthy, happy, and more importantly (ha) we were warm!