overnight bus

Day 105: another overnight bus

The only thing I wanted to do was return to the Marionette shop and buy a dancing princess. The day before when I dropped in and asked for prices, they didn’t seem high and I thought I could get them even lower. When we went back, the shop was full of men (not the woman I spoke to the day before) and the prices nearly tripled. It was fun to see the back room full of fancy marionettes and see them dance, and as much as I wanted the dancing princess, I couldn’t pay triple for one. Thankfully, another small shop had fair prices and even if they didn’t have an elaborate dancing princess, they did have a marionette horse that made up for it!

We wanted to take a train to Mumbai. It would have been faster, but all of the trains were full, so we had to take another overnight bus. We almost didn’t make it. Some of the overnight buses park in random places and our rickshaw driver had no idea where it was. After, of course, we piled into his rickshaw and had been on the road for ten minutes or so… It was also the slowest rickshaw in all of India. He stopped for directions a few times, thought he took us to the correct place, only to find no bus. When we got back into his rickshaw,

he asked: When is your bus?

we responded: 6:30

driver: Ohhh very big problem! And what time is it now?

Andrew: 6:31

driver: Ohhh very big problem!

Luckily, the bus was still there. I have no idea how we made it. And it turned out to be the nicest bus we’ve been on yet!

Day 102: waking up in a desert

Waking up in a desert is cold. Running down a sand dune to make it back to your mattress in time for the self-timer on your camera is a lot harder than you might think. Realizing the saddle on your camel is a little lopsided makes the ride a full out work-out. The whole day was slightly askew, in a wonderful, but sometimes uncomfortable way. The whole night (all 18 hours of it) on a bus to Udaipur was not as wonderful. At least we weren’t sharing our sleeper cabin for two with two other people! At least we had baked goods to snack on. At least our window opened AND closed. (This is what optimism in India sounds like.)

Nearly all of us on the camel safari were heading out of the city at some point in the afternoon or evening. We would run into each other in the city buying souvenirs and having a third coffee or juice just to give us something to do. Little did we know, Andrew and I would be getting on the very worst bus ride yet.

I can assure you that I am not elaborating. Because at our first delay, I didn’t flinch (ok, maybe I did a little) when heavy parcels were being thrown onto the top of the bus. At our second delay, around one in the morning, I figured they would fix the bus soon, or the one person we were waiting for would arrive, regardless we would be on our way. And I fell asleep. Around three in the morning, Andrew nudged me awake, we hadn’t moved, another bus had arrived for us to get on instead. At our third delay, I opened up the window to the countryside. A tree and rocks, not a road were right outside my window. Other travelers opened up their windows. The Israeli in the cabin in front of our cabin, yelled at the men trying to fix the problem (of not being on a road!) by shoving rocks under the wheels that were not budging.

It. was. ridiculous.

We don’t know if they were avoiding roads with tolls… or maybe it had something to do with the heavy parcels on top of the bus that they didn’t want to get caught with… or maybe the heavy parcels weighed the bus down so much that it didn’t matter what kind of road we were driving on, it would be a problem… or maybe the combination of all of the buses we’ve been on in India are so old- too old- that they shouldn’t be on the road?

It still could have been worse. We could have been in the sleeper compartment the Korean girl was in with a window that wouldn’t close. She woke up at some point in the middle of the night without her bag. (It fell out of the window while she was sleeping) Apparently her passport was in that bag. We rolled into Udaipur around 9 or 10 in the morning, exhausted, to say the least. But, it could have been worse.

Day 11: The day Alka Seltzer saved my life.

As always, a Skype call with my Momma and her suggestion to take some Alka Seltzer cheered me right up, and made me feel lightyears better (but more on that later). Excited not to spend another afternoon sick in bed, we made our way to The Temple of Literature, a coffee shop, The Hanoi Hilton, and a little shopping before getting on another overnight bus, this time down to the ancient city of Hue.

The Temple of Literature, also a temple of Confucius, is Vietnam’s first national university. It felt like a scaled down version of a palace in Seoul, a very scaled down version. So, while it was nice and a lovely respite from the chaos that is in every Vietnamese city, we acknowledged that “Well, it’s no Gyeongbokgung…” and that perhaps, we might have been spoiled with the sights of Seoul. (Obviously we are also biased.)

I had to agree when Andrew said, “Kung Fu Panda called, it wants it’s Master Crane back:”

After meandering through the temple, we made our way across the city to check out The Hanoi Hilton. The Hanoi Hilton is what the American prisoners of war sarcastically called the Hỏa Lò Prison. It was first called Maison Centrale (a traditional name for “prison” in France) thus, used by French colonists for political prisoners. These origins  explain the guillotine housed inside the prison, and statues of shackled Vietnamese prisoners that you see in the video. There are only two smaller rooms that divulge information about the Vietnam War prisoners of war and of course, they gloss over what really happened to them. Which I found annoying. Sure, it’s perfectly ok to represent the poor conditions of the Vietnamese who were housed there unjustly- but thanks so much for the pictures of Senator John McCain and President Clinton smiling in front of the prison several years after the war. Because I’m sure McCain was smiling the whole time he was kept as a POW. Good one, Vietnam.

We hustled it back near our hostel, so I could (most importantly) go purchase the bag I couldn’t stop thinking about. (I know, I know… I have a problem.) We waited for some Banh Mi sandwiches, which turned out to be quite entertaining because the Banh Mi lady must have been operating without a permit… A siren started to wail, and someone barked information out of a speaker causing vendors to go into a state of panic, moving their makeshift operations into hiding. We watched her move her cabinets off of the corner down the street, then walk back out to check for signs of trouble, before moving her cabinets back to the corner to resume business. Then we got our sandwiches and waited for the bus.

Of course, when we were on time (early, even!) for the bus, we had to wait 40 minutes or so before a man led us to a taxi that would take us to the bus, that was not even there when we arrived. Of course. Then, once the bus did arrive, we had to wait another 40 minutes on board, before it left. And THEN we realized our two seats/beds were next to a very (VERY) smelly bathroom. Which had a door that seemed to be too difficult for every Vietnamese man (who had to pee at least three times each before the bus left) to latch closed. So the door to the smelly bathroom would randomly swing open sending a strong waft of urine out over the six or so settled into seats on the back of the bus. Andrew being the closest, would have to reach over and shut the door every time. I’ve since decided urine is my least favorite smell, and after this bus ride swore I could pick up the scent EVERYWHERE.

This led to a very heated (not really at all) between Andrew and myself. One that I will present to you: Would you rather: sleep next to a smelly bathroom on your sleeper bus OR not have a bathroom on the bus? After being sick on the two previous buses, I quickly decided I’d rather have the bathroom. Andrew (not yet sick at all) having had to close the bathroom door repeatedly throughout our 12 hour overnight bus, quickly decided he’d rather not have the bathroom.