Thailand

Day 64: One Day in BKK

Arriving in Bangkok an hour early (around six in the morning), we were exhausted and not exactly looking forward to the next 24 hours of not having a bed to lay down in and more travel. Instead of another day of coffee shop hopping, we ended up camping out at a rooftop pool on Kao Sarn Road. This is a major touristy road in Bangkok, that is a little fun for the first time, but after two (or more) it's not. I was relieved to escape to several stories above the clothing and food vendors, Gangnam Style blasting (on repeat), and the tourists eager to get their drink on. We camped out, slept, swam, left our bags while we went out for lunch (and then dinner), and even showered before heading off to the airport to catch our 1:00 AM flight to New Delhi.

We didn't really sleep… But had we been coherent, there would be a picture on board our Indigo flight to New Delhi, and then when we were camped out in New Delhi's airport in the morning.

Day 63: Wandering through more wats in Chiang Mai

Our last day in Chiang Mai was spent working and wandering through wats. It wasn't the most eventful. I have been fairly anxious to get out of SE Asia, and I may have rubbed off on Andrew more than I should have. Both of us kinda felt like we were waiting the entire day just to get on the bus down to Bangkok. We stumbled upon these two wats and a tailor willing to fix my backpack by chance. My brand new (knock off) Roxy backpack made it a whopping 12 hours before it ripped at one of the seams… I almost kissed the tailor who allowed me to dump out its contents in his shop, so he could sew up the bag in a matter of minutes. 

Our bus down to Bangkok wasn't all that bad. We avoided the tourist bus, and skipped out on the train simply because there weren't seats next to each other (which is preferred on an overnight sleeper). We ended up on a Nakhon Chai Air Bus that was a little like being on an actual airplane; flight attendant included! She was adorable, and I really wanted to get a picture of (with?) her, but thought it might be creepy, so I didn't. Sidenote: I think I would like American flight attendants a little bit more if they all wore little hats. Think on that Delta, United, American!

Day 62: Sunday walking market in Chiang Mai

Back in Chiang Mai, we couldn't have timed it more perfectly to be able to hit up the Sunday walking market. At first, we expected it to be a morning/early afternoon kind of thing. Obviously this wasn't the case, so we stalked the area (before lunch, and then after a mid-day coffee) until we finally saw vendors setting up around 4pm. Officially, the market gets going right at dusk, including a pause for the Thai National Anthem. (I was not alone in the "Wait, what's going on?" feeling as many other tourists found it amusing that the entire market stopped to pay respect. It was like going to an American ballgame, only without the stadium, peanuts, oh yea, and actual baseball.

Our favorite part of the market was the multiple areas devoted to streetfood stalls. We failed on our first two orders (fried wontons with quail eggs inside and some overly fishy papaya salad) but made up for it with an order of grilled chicken, samosas, a spring roll, a bowl of Khao Soy (Andrew's favorite) and one fried banana roll. 

"Why can't America have this?" Andrew asked as we sat on tiny plastic stools with our knees higher than the table in between us. 

"It does. At fairs. Only EVERYTHING is fried and it's at least 10 times more expensive…" And I sighed, knowing this is going to be problematic for both of us.

Day 61: A Pool in Pai

We would have stayed longer in Pai if we hadn't already booked a room back in Chiang Mai for tonight… It's one of those places that is inevitably hard for everyone to leave. Even as I waited outside of our mini-bus to leave this afternoon, one of the other passengers hopped out "to have one last cigarette in Pai" he said with a Spanish lisp. He asked what we did in Pai, and nodded wistfully when I responded "Not much really, we hung out around town. Today we went swimming…"

It's just one of those places where people don't judge when you admit to not doing much.

See why we didn't want to leave?

Day 60: Peace, Love, Pai

Pai offers trekking tours, elephant rides, and motorbikes and maps to explore around the outskirts of town. But really, Pai wants you to relax. It's practically demanded that you sit in a coffee shop and read, chat, or simply drink something delicious with or without company. And that's just what we did. We slept in late, we ate a huge breakfast at Boomelicious (maybe my favorite restaurant on this trip so far) and then sat with our computers and coffees for awhile. We got up, wandered, found another cafe and sat for awhile, before it was time to streetfood stall hop for dinner and then, get our portrait painted by a street artist.

When in Pai…

Day 59: Life in Pai

We weren't sure if we were going to swing up to Pai or not, but after the not so lovely front deskman at The Chiang Mai Thai House informed me we'd have to move to a more expensive room if we wanted to stay, we decided we may as well catch a bus to Pai after all! I'm rather glad that the stars aligned for us to visit. Because somehow, I managed to forget how much I love this tiny town.

It's much more popular than it was four years ago. When I was here last, there was one shop to get eclectic hippie meets graphic design postcards and paraphanalia… now there are dozens. The town stays up later than it did in the past, and many more tourists sit in coffeeshops by day and roam the streets by night. The roads have since opened up to more streetfood stalls and vendors selling t-shirts, leather bags, woven scarves, and so much more. It's glorious. The only problem with Pai is that I want to buy everything! (Including the beautiful and out of my price-range handmade leather bag I'm eyeing in the video. And yes, I know, it's another bag… I do not deny I have a problem. At least the giant black and silver ring I found- not at all to Andrew's surprise, was in my price range!)

 

Day 58: Poolside!

We woke up early and did some (blog) work in the morning while it rained, and then spent the rest of the afternoon poolside. The other day, Andrew said that for as long as we've been in SouthEast Asia, we've spent remarkably little time at the beach. He's right. We've really only been on a beach or poolside less than a handful of times. Mostly because we've officially decided to skip Southern Thailand for Nepal. It's my fault… I'm getting antsy to see something new. As incredible as these past two months have been traveling, and making new memories with Andrew… I haven't really been to a new place yet… and although Andrew set his foot down about me returning to SE Asia, after two months, I'm setting my foot down about getting out of it. 

We are officially booked for Nepal next week, will probably travel by land to India, and officially booked for The UAE for New Years with our friend, Kate! (Yay!) It may have been an exciting day of planning for us, but that doesn't make for a fun video – or post for you. Apologies! Hopefully Nepal will make up for it next week!

Hope you had a wonderful Halloween! 

Day 57: The backpack dilemma; Osprey Farpoint 55, you’re bringing me down.

Colds get worse before they get better, right? I hope so, because today was a struggle. With plans of coffee shop hopping, we did just that, mostly because we kept running into internet usage limits. At 94 Coffee, our internet expired after a mere one hour, and after peeking into other coffee shops, it was much the same! And Lord knows, if I have to order one coffee for every hour of internet I use, I just might die… We finally ended up at the most common (I think?) Thai chain, Black Canyon and were rewarded with unlimited internet and a not so bad Thai iced milk tea!

After too much online action, we went in search of the night market, some street food, and possibly some new backpacks.

“But you HAVE a backpack, Liz!” You might exclaim. “You bought it specifically for this trip and it was expensive!” You might add…

And you’re right. I DO have an expensive “backpackers” backpack. I broke down and bought it after Manhattan Portage didn’t respond to my last email this summer with details of a bag I wanted them to design and manufacture. Crazy, right? But they were interested and I was excited!

I know, you might be a little skeptical, but really, the Assistant Sales and Marketing Manager and I were in communication! She got my hopes way up with her response that it might be possible! If nothing else, she volunteered to be my bag sponsor for the trip. But then, my hopes of having a perfectly designed bag for “the modern traveler” (or at least a nice, already designed and made Manhattan Portage bag) were crashed when she didn’t respond to my most recent email- in July- before we left on our trip.

So here I am, in Thailand with an Osprey Farpoint 55 (that cost $176.00) that I do not like (that’s putting it mildly) looking at knockoff backpacks and totes in the Chiang Mai Night Bazzar.

Before we left Seoul, I told Andrew I wanted to take everything I wanted to pack to the store, put it in a backpack, and walk around with it for awhile to see if it would work. He laughed at me. Well, now I totally wish I would have, becuase maybe I wouldn’t be in this predicament now! Here’s the thing, on paper, the Osprey Farpoint 55 is great:

  • clam-shell opening- much better than a top loading backpack where you have to dig around to find something all the way at the bottom… or dump everything out…
  • lockable zippers. (obviously it’s lovely to have a little extra protection when you leave your bag in a hostel or trekking office for a few days)
  • detachable day-pack
  • backpack straps zip up into a pocket, making the bag appear more like a duffle when carrying through an airport (not to mention the straps won’t get caught on conveyor belts)
  • it’s supposed to fit within the current airline carry-on size requirements (eliminating the need to check and pay for a bag was a huge bonus!)

In reality, I think the Osprey Farpoint 55 kinda sucks:

  • The clamshell is fantastic for access, but there are only two small straps inside to hold your things in “securely.” In addition, there are only two mesh pockets on the lid (if you will) of the bag. The only way to organize your bag is to get additional bags to put within the main compartment. In my opinion- this totally defeats the purpose of a clamshell opening. If you don’t want your bag semi-exploding everytime you open it (because there is no real support for the sides of the bag to contain your belongings within) you need to get compression bags to contain all of your Round-the-World needs. Everytime I unzip my bag all the way, I feel as though I’m facing an unorganized mountain (despite organizing everything before it was zipped up) and I have to devote extra time to folding and organizing my clothes, and other contents. Another blogger raved about the ease of the clamshell opening to see all of her stuff, but, she had compression bags. So, I don’t get it. I think a backpack with more pockets and organizational tools would be better than spending so much on a bag and then having to spend more on compression bags…
  • There aren’t any outside pockets on the main bag for wet shoes while traveling.
  • If both the big backpack and daypack are full, it’s impossible to zip the daypack onto the bigger pack. You’re almost forced to walk around town with one backpack on the front of you, and one on the back, which makes you feel like an idiot. Not to mention how uncomfortable it is to maneuver in! I feel like this could be avoided if a little strip of stretchy fabric or at least there was more give with the zipper.
  • You have to buy a separate rain cover. Maybe this is just Osprey’s way of making sure you buy more products from them, but it’s incredibly inconvenient- especially during monsoon season in Southeast Asia. So when it rains, instead of unzipping an external pocket and being able to pull it out and quickly put over your pack (the InCase Ari Marcopoulos camera bag is the jam when it comes to this feature), you have to find a dry spot, unzip your pack, exploding everything, while you search for your rain cover. That’s just dumb, Osprey.
  • The daypack is designed for someone who has a smaller/thinner computer than my 13” MacBook Air in a padded sleeve. This daypack is for someone who doesn’t carry a DSLR, doesn’t drink water (at least out of a bottle bigger than 8 oz.), and doesn’t buy any souvenirs. Seriously, if you’re the lightest packer on earth, and are only using a point and shoot, maybe you have a fighting chance, otherwise… I can’t fit anything I need (and use on a daily basis) inside at the same time! I’m usually forced to carry my DSLR separately and outside of the daypack.
  • The daypack’s outside mesh pockets have no give. My Nalgene bottle doesn’t have a chance fitting inside, so I’m forced to hang it from a carabiner from the zipper. (Not sure how long that’s going to last)
  • The daypack has a smaller zippered pouch, that’s great for lip balm, tissues, and the like… But the inside of the daypack isn’t lined, so if full, the pocket flips around and prevents you from seeing what’s inside the pack. Also it buts up against the interior pocket, so you can’t put much in either pocket or you can’t zip the pack closed.
  • The daypack doesn’t come with a rain cover. Raincovers average around $30.00 each. That’s two raincovers you need for both the big backpack and the daypack. Your backpack now cost you at least $205.00.

I’m just curious at this point, if the designers of the Farpoint 55 have ever backpacked themselves? Because after using it for two months, I feel like it was designed by someone who hasn’t lived out of a backpack for this long (let alone longer) and has a degree in design and thought, “Oh hey, this will work!” or “This is what backpackers need!” when they designed the backpack- and ESPECIALLY when they designed (the super sucky) daypack.

The worst part about backpack shopping for a Round-the-World trip is that none of them are really designed for someone traveling long term WITH computers and camera gear. Which is what I appealed to Manhattan Portage about. InCase bags aren’t big enough. Manhattan Portage bags (currently) aren’t versatile enough. And Osprey bags… well, you know my sentiments…

Four years ago, I traveled around SE Asia for two and a half months. I carried a shoulder leather duffle style bag and a Jansport backpack. It was perfect. I don’t know why I didn’t go that route this time around. I panicked. This whole “Round-the-World” aspect threw me. I have an entire First Aid kit for travel’s sake! So I thought I needed a “backpacker’s backpack.” Andrew waxed on about shoulder and back support, when in reality I did just fine (more than fine) with my bags last time around. So here we are, two months into our trip, in Thailand with fancy backpacks sizing up the knockoffs in the markets. I’ve already given up on the daypack and I’ve been using a $5.00 Thai concrete bag tote bag instead. The ‘Roxy’ backpack doesn’t have lockable zippers, but if I can get the vendor down to $10 or $15, I just might spring for it, and look for a duffle in India? Regardless, this Osprey Farpoint 55 is bringing me down and has got to go!

Six month update on the bag:

I get a lot of hits on this page, so I thought I’d jump back to it to write a quick update after using the backpack for six months. In brief, I’m still not a fan. I’ve been traveling with the daypack zipped to the big pack and an additional (knockoff) Roxy backpack I bought at a Thai market for the past five months. I lost my rain cover on the big backpack because it wouldn’t stay on securely when the daypack was zipped onto the main pack. I can’t fit much into the daypack while it’s zipped onto the main pack other than a mosquito net. Even with only that in the daypack, it makes the bag overall much more bulky than you would think… Several small holes have appeared in the last few months as well on the big pack. This hasn’t happened to my partner’s bag, and we’re not sure why it has to mine as we both have the same amount and kinds of things in our bags (mostly clothes). Perhaps this is just wear and tear. Indian and now African buses aren’t exactly easy on stowed baggage, but depending on the length of your travel, this may be an issue. The holes are small, and don’t seem to pose a huge problem… yet.

On the more optimistic side, the zippers remain incredible and neither of us have had issue with them at all. They are the most impressive feature of the bag(s). Also, being able to zip up the straps is a really fantastic feature as well. We do this often while we’re in transit, and when walking into a nicer hotel, we don’t give off the dirty backpacker vibe as readily.

Random sidenote: Because we don’t keep anything of real value in our bigger bags, we’ve only been using carabiners to keep the zippers together when we check our bags (just in case). This has been a huge mistake. Between the two of us, we’ve now lost 3-4 carabiners in airports. We’re assuming bag handlers have been ecstatic over them. Obviously the carabiners aren’t the most expensive things in the world, but it’s been an annoyance, and while we didn’t think it necessary to get TSA locks for our bags, now we’re looking to acquire some, just to ensure the zippers don’t sneak apart after checking our bags.

Day 56: 8 Kilograms of Laundry

We crossed the border from Laos into Thailand by 9:00. We were on the bus to Chiang Mai by 10:30. By 5:00, we were checked into one of the nicest guest-houses (with a pretty pool too!) we've found on our trip so far. And then we set out to drop off some laundry, and by some, I really mean practically every article of clothing we have with us before dinner. And then once again, as we are still a bit sick, we crashed early. You have no idea how lovely a clean (sans deer head with moveable wooden ears) room, bathroom without holes in the wall in lieu of drains, and not having to wake up early feels. Ok, maybe you do, but just to reiterate, it feels great. Except, you know, the colds we're both battling. 

Day 41: 24 Hours of Tuk Tuks, Buses, & 1 Train to Laos

We could have flown. That would have been much easier than the 24 hours of travel time it took to get from Siem Reap to Vientiane. Flying would have also been much (much) more expensive than our tuk tuk, bus, train adventure. In case you haven't figured it out by now with the expense reports at the end of each post, we're trying to keep to a budget mostly so we can afford this whole year of adventures. The lower the daily average, the more likely we'll last until Thanksgiving of 2013. So deciding between a $250 (at the absolute lowest) flight and a $25 (roughly) day of transit, we chose the latter. Aside from the three hour wait at the Thai side of the border, the day really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Andrew says the three hour wait (it was ridiculously hot) was the worst part of our trip so far… but he wasn't sick on an overnight Vietnamese bus, so I can't agree.

9:00 AM mini-bus ride to Poipet (Cambodia/Thai border)…$5.00 

12:00 PM border crossing (longest border crossing of my life by the way)

3:00 PM tuk tuk to Aranyathapet, Thailand for a bus to Khorat…$1.30

6:00 PM bus to Khorat (also known as Nakhon Ratchasima)…$6.86

10:00 PM tuk tuk to Khorat train station…$0.98

11:30 PM train to Nong Khai, Thailand (Thai/Laos border)…$12.02

7:00 AM tuk tuk to Thai/Laos border…$0.98

8:30 AM bus across Mekong River to Laos side…$0.65

9:00 AM bus to downtown Vientiane…$0.75

9:30 AM tuk tuk to coffee shop in Vientiane to call/meet Hans…$0.62

(Unfortunately it seems as though Lightroom lost (or, more accurately, while trying to import my images in an organized fashion I lost) tonight's picture of us trying to sleep in a bright florescent lit (all night long folks) over air-conditioned train car. Sorry, I'm sure this annoys you as much as it does me.)