Day 372: Free Walking Tour Cusco

Somehow the Free Walking Tour Cusco escaped us! We didn’t know there was such a thing until we saw a flyer for it in the Choco Museo the day before. Given that we usually love free walking tours, and do them often, we figured we had to take Mom on one. Even though we had to cut it short to get to the airport in time, and it might have been more useful to have gone on at the beginning of our time in Cusco… it was probably the perfect ending to Mom’s tour of Peru! The tour wasn’t our absolute favorite (kudos, Andre in Brasov, that title still belongs to you!) but it was nice and it included free food (ok, a tasting), sunscreen, a lot of information, and even some sunscreen before the tour began!

We actually had been almost everywhere that the Free Walking Tour Cusco took us, we just didn’t know everything about the streets, or the restaurants, or the Incan architecture we were standing in front of. It was nice to get a little bit more information and to hear a different perspective about Cusco through our guide. Although, I have to admit, this was the first time where I was a little overwhelmed by our guide’s energy. At times, I wanted to tell him to take a deep breath, but overall I think everyone will agree that too much enthusiasm is better than too little, right?

From where we were staying in Cusco, in the Barrio San Blas, we would take the same route to and from the main square, Plaza de Armas. Part of the tour covered this route, and the area around where we were staying. Our guide equated the neighborhood to Greece, because of the white walls and blue doorways and shutters. I had to chuckle a little at his comparison, ok maaaybe a little, but it doesn’t feel like Greece just because of a few white walls and blue shutters- at least not to me. It is a charming neighborhood, and quiet too! I was glad to hear about the artisans who lived in the area and made note of our guide’s suggestion to duck into one of the open corridors to see what kind of art and handicrafts were being made. We climbed up the hill, and took in this beautiful view of Cusco before we ducked out to head to the airport to drop Mom off. Luckily, Andrew is used to me getting emotional over goodbyes, and held my hand in the taxi back into town as I tried not to cry, knowing I would see her and so many more in just a couple of months!

Day 371: Back in Cusco

Momma’s last full day in Peru! We’ve been moving so fast through Peru, that we were content with wandering around the city of Cusco and seeing what we could find. We hadn’t heard very good things about the Inca Museum(s) so instead we headed towards one of the higher rated museums first, The Center for Traditional Textiles, walking past Quirikancha, once the most important temple in the Incan Empire, and then through the many squares of Cusco, ending up at the Chocolate Museum.

Quirikancha was once the most important temple and the center of the Inca Empire. Once upon a time it was covered in gold, as it was dedicated to the Sun God, Inti. That is, until the Spanish came along and demanded a ransom in place of the Inca Atahualpa, and the temple was stripped of all of its gold. Juan Pizarro, one of Francisco Pizarro’s brothers received Quirikancha and before he died, donated it to the Dominican Order of priests. Eventually, the church that you see behind (or rather, inside the walls of the former Temple of the Sun) the Incan foundation was built.

However, our first stop of the day was the Center for Traditional Textiles, a free museum with rather beautiful displays of the intricate weaving that is so common throughout Peru. I was a little hesitant, but Andrew assured us that it was one of the highest rated museums in Cusco… and Mom had just finished her first course in weaving, so we pretty much had to go. 

My favorite part of the museum were the live demonstrations and the half finished weavings that were tied off. After our visit, I noticed that these half woven pieces used as wall hangings instead of scarves or blankets or even wraps were quite popular around Cusco. Again, if I knew exactly how many walls I was returning to, I would have bought them all up! I thought they made such beautiful art pieces, especially knowing that they were preserving a traditional culture that is being quickly replaced by low cost imported string and machinery. The Center for Traditional Textiles is right down the street from Quirikancha, and the Convent of Santo Domingo.

What’s somewhat unbelievable is that the Incan walls were kept entirely intact and the church was built in between the walls of the Incan temple. Above you can see the courtyard, but throughout the building were different Incan rooms that were still free standing with dirt floors and nothing inside. Technically we weren’t supposed to take pictures, but I saw many people freely taking photographs out in the courtyard. I’m not sure why there was a no photo rule- maybe for the interior rooms that held loads and loads of religious art? Either way, it was interesting to walk through, but it made me feel a little uncomfortable wondering how the Incans must have felt back in the day when their most important temple was handed over to an entirely different religion, one that built a gigantic church and monastery around walls that once used to be covered in gold.

The above picture was to show how Quirikancha was at the center of the Incan universe. How other temples in the empire all led to Quirikancha. The picture below illustrates how the Incas looked at the stars. While we look at the stars, and the constellations by connecting the stars together, the Incans looked at the pictures made in the dark spots or shadows in between the stars.

Outside of not only Quirikancha, but throughout the streets of Cusco, women in traditional dress walked around tethered to a grown llama or holding a baby lamb. Often, they would put the lamb in your arms, encouraging you to take a photo, for which you would have to pay for after. I didn’t need a photo of myself with a baby lamb, so I would always get really excited and pet the lamb (simultaneously empathizing for it) until they would realize I wasn’t going to pose for a picture with it.

After The Choco Museo (which was an informative, albeit glorified shop) we wandered around, fed the birds, and coerced Mom into one last drink before her last day began in the morning.

Day 370: Huayna Picchu + Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu! Our day started out early, for we signed up to be a few of the four hundred (per day) to climb Huayna Picchu. Around seven in the morning, we were (somewhat) rushing through Machu Picchu to the far end of the site to stand in line at the Huayna Picchu checkpoint. Less than two hours later, we were atop Huayna Picchu, taking in a hands down amazing view of Machu Picchu. (It was well worth the climb – to say the least.) We spent the afternoon walking through Machu Picchu in complete awe and wonder of the Incan architecture. It’s impressive, not only because of the precision and grandeur, but because of the mystery behind it. -Especially when you’re staring out at mountaintops all around… it puts it into very close perspective of how unique it really is. The Great Wall, Angkor Wat, even the Taj Mahal are all incredible, but everyone has always known about them. And in comparison, they were all built somewhat out in the open, for all to see… Even though we were just a few of the many (many, many) daily visitors, it felt like we were being let in on a big secret just by being within the walls of Machu Picchu.

Getting to Machu Picchu is no easy task. Granted, it is MUCH easier than it was back in the days of Hiram Bingham. It’s not cheap, either. To walk the Inca Trail, one must sign up at least six months ahead of time. At least. You’re required to take a few porters, a guide, and a cook… Although we would have loved to walk it, not having firm plans throughout this year of travel and my bum heel prohibited us from even considering walking the trail. The alternative day visit isn’t the cheapest either. After you’ve spent a hundred dollars just to train it to Aguas Calientes, you’re still at the bottom of the Andes, and Machu Picchu is at the top. You can walk up the zig-zagging road to the entrance of Machu Picchu (we saw at least one couple with more gumption than ourselves) or you can fork over $18.50 for the bus (at least it was round-trip) like we did.

However, after you’ve handed over your ticket (that you absolutely must get ahead of time, either online or in Aguas Calientes) you’re walking towards Machu Picchu letting the excitement take over any and all annoyance over the inflated expenses you paid to get here. Arriving just after sunrise didn’t hurt either. Isn’t this light gorgeous?

First stop: Huayna Picchu. I have to admit, I was a little nervous about this climb. I didn’t think it would be a big deal until a few nights ago, Andrew started looking up videos of what it would be like and showed us one with rocks jutting out of the side of a mountain that you had to trust could hold your weight as you climbed up. Ok, so maybe I was a little scared on top of nervous. The problem with me being scared of something though, is that I know that it means I have to do it. There’s no getting around it. Like this entire trip, I guess… when I step back and think about it.

Huayna Picchu (also known as Wayna Picchu) is the mountain that is usually behind Machu Picchu in all of the pictures. The Urubamba River curves around this mountain below it and Machu Picchu. I found it interesting that I had never heard of this mountain, only Machu Picchu, yet the Incas built a trail with temples and terraces on its side and top as well. The peak (our destination) is 8,920 ft above sea level. It’s 1,180 feet higher than Machu Picchu. The climb itself wasn’t terribly hard, but the altitude made things a bit challenging.

Once we got to the top though, I understood why my aunt had emailed, urging us to try to get tickets. Again, only 400 are allowed up the mountain per day. There are two designated time slots, allowing 200 people in during each 2 hour window. We had to sign in before we were allowed to start the climb and were supposed to be back down 2 hours later. However, nothing was really enforced and we took our time once we were up at the top, pausing several times for photos or to just sit and admire the view.

According to Wikipedia, According to local guides, the top of the mountain was the residence for the high priest and the local virgins. Every morning before sunrise, the high priest with a small group would walk to Machu Picchu to signal the coming of the new day. The Temple of the Moon, one of the three major temples in the Machu Picchu area, is nestled on the side of the mountain and is situated at an elevation lower than Machu Picchu. 

Momma was slightly terrified of the edge and the general realization of exactly how high we were once we got to the top. As you’re climbing up, you really don’t have a clear sense of how high you are because you’re on a trail that is winding around the mountain. In other words, it’s not just one “up” direction. These are the steps that scared me in the video Andrew showed us a few days before. The video made it look like the girl was standing on these steps directly over the edge of a mountain. However, they’re above terraces and they aren’t nearly as scary as they might look. Unnerving, sure. Of course. But really, not sooo bad. Unless you’re my mom- who wasn’t going anywhere near them. If you find yourself atop Huayna Picchu- take these steps up. I think it offers a great view, one that isn’t as crowded as other levels.

Some of the shots were taken from the absolute tip top of Huayna Picchu. We had to squeeze our way through and under some rocks that almost seemed precariously balanced atop the mountain. Only because we had to exit this way would Mom even consider climbing up to the top. I convinced her to let me photograph her, but unfortunately had my broken lens on my camera from some prior shots to see if I could squeeze one or two images out of it. I liked these images of her laughing so much I almost don’t mind how blown out they are. I’m pretty sure she thought she was going to slide right off the mountain when we had to cross this rock to get down to some more traditional steps below.

Another family decided to race back down the mountain. I had no desire to even consider racing back down. While the altitude didn’t bother me as much during the descent, these skinny little stairs did. The problem (if you can even call it a problem) with climbing Huayna Picchu before you really explore Machu Picchu, is that it’s kinda in the middle of the traditional visiter route through Machu Picchu. Apparently you’re supposed to follow this route and cannot reverse course halfway through. We didn’t realize this when we started walking through Machu Picchu.

Another “problem” with sprinting through Machu Picchu to climb Huayna Picchu first is that when you’re finished climbing Huayna Picchu, you’re in the middle of Machu Picchu (below on the map at #11) without a guide. This is something I wish we would have realized or thought of before we entered. There are dozens of guides standing outside the entrance to Machu Picchu offering up their services. Had I known any better, I would have made arrangements with one of them to meet us at the Huayna Picchu gate after our climb. (If you plan on doing both in one day- get a guide to meet you!) I enjoyed milling around Machu Picchu, and it was easy to evesdrop on other tours for bits and pieces of information, but I wish I had done some more research on the site, or brought along a Machu Picchu book, or something to better understand what buildings or temples or burial sites we were standing in. Even a map, like this one below (found here) would have helped! I thought perhaps we missed them on our way in, but when we left I looked to see if there were any sitting out and couldn’t findany (or any sign that there were some there previously). 

Above is a view of Huayna Picchu from the middle of Machu Picchu. If you look really closely, you can see the stonework towards the top. It’s pretty incredible how well it blends into the rock and trees of the mountain. If you didn’t know to look for it, I think you would miss it! (At least I would!)

It doesn’t look like there were many people in my pictures. (My mom was a little surprised when she saw the pictures of the monastery in Arequipa how empty it looked. I’m curious if she’ll be surprised with these pictures as well. -Are you Mom?) The truth is, I waited in many cases for people to get out of my shot. Or worked the framing to make the site stand out instead of highlighting just how many people there were around the site with us. There were a lot. It also helped that a few areas were roped off from the public – llamas only, or workers removing unwanted weeds from the stonework. We began our own tour of Machu Picchu through what I think were the houses of factories and then through the industrial zone.

According to some descriptions (and some guides) of Machu Picchu, this area is known as the Temple of the Condor. A temple where the Incas specifically worshiped the condor (the bird which is thought to represent the sky and afterlife of the Incas. We heard that many guides will call it a temple to paint a friendlier picture of Machu Picchu. However, this area was actually the prisoner’s area and there was some cruel torture that went on here, some say is evident by certain niches in the stones. Maybe both are speculation, but I think the prison idea is probably the most accurate.

In the middle of Machu Picchu, above the royal tomb is the Temple of the Sun, also called the Torreón. This is one of the most sacred places in Machu Picchu and only the Inca (the king of the Incas) himself and the high priest could enter. It’s where the diety, Inti (the sun) is worshipped. During the winter solstice, the sun shines through the trapezoidal window onto a really large granite stone, which the temple was built around. Like all of Machu Picchu, the exact purpose of this temple is debated. Was it for female ”Virgins of the Sun” or was it a monument to the Inca Pachacutec or an observatory? Maybe all of the above? Who knows. Regardless, during the winter (in June in these parts) solstice, the sun illuminates the sacred rock in the middle of the temple – for reasons no one is entirely positive about.

Around the Temple of the sun are some houses known as The Royal Sector. Basically, where the royal family lived. (I think.)

At the very top of the middle area of Machu Picchu, is the Temple of the Three Windows, this was more like a wall, surrounding the Sacred Plaza. It’s here where you will find the Principal Temple, the House of the Priest, the Sacristy, and a LOT of tour groups. Unfortunately, at the time, we weren’t sure what we were looking at. I mostly took pictures of what I found interesting and a few roped off areas that I knew were important… only I wasn’t sure exactly why. I followed the crowd and found myself facing this giant rock, guarded by one thin rope and a Machu Picchu employee making sure no one crossed it. Dozens were standing in front of it to get their picture taken. This sacred rock is known as Intihuatana. It supposedly mirrors the shape of Huayna Picchu (the mountain we climbed a few hours ago) and is said to have functioned as a sundial, or astronomical calendar, or agricultural calendar, or perhaps all of the above? Bottom line: it’s special. sacred. super important. Apparently other similar stones were carved elsewhere but were all destroyed by the invading Spaniards (Thanks a lot, Spain!) who wanted to replace them with crosses, thus ridding then Peru of its pagan ways. I found Andrew and Momma waiting for me here, just chillin’ in some Incan niches…

It was right around here where we got in trouble. You see, we had already gone around the far side of Machu Picchu to climb Huayna Picchu. However, when we went to double back to see what we missed, we were directed back where we came from. We listened to the first two Machu Picchu employees, but then held firm with the third one. All we had to do was cross over one walkway to get back to the main stairs. A tourist guide (with his group) stopped to help us, and once the Machu Picchu employee saw that we were creating a crowd, he let us double back to see the half of Machu Picchu (where most people start their visit) we missed.

This might have been my favorite part of Machu Picchu. It provided a beautiful view of Machu Picchu, and seemed a little more secluded and less traveled than the famous temples and lawns full of llamas, terraces, and perfect masonry. We passed through the City Gate, walked up around The House of the Guardians, and we must have passed the Funerary Rock and Cemetary although we didn’t know it at the time. By this time, our water was running low, the sun was getting to us, and we were starting to slow down. Of course, we still enjoyed the view, and I even convinced Momma to get up to jump for a picture or two.

If you walk far back enough, you’ll find yourself at another checkpoint and a trail leading to the Inca Bridge. We were told it wasn’t hard, so Andrew and I decided to check it out. Twenty minutes later, we found ourselves facing this (above) and honestly we weren’t impressed. I don’t see what the big deal was… According to Wikipedia, The trail is a stone path, part of which is cut into a cliff face. A twenty-foot gap was left in this section of the carved cliff edge, over a 1,900 feet drop, that could be bridged with two tree trunks, otherwise leaving the trail impassable to outsiders. I would have been content to instead have spent my time sitting within the walls of Machu Picchu and soaking it up before deciding we had seen enough… We collected Momma, walked around a little more to see if there was anything we missed, went to where we thought was the end/start of the Inca Trail, took a few last pictures and made our way back out and down to Aguas Calientes, and then back to Cusco.

Day 369: Ollantaytambo + Aguas Calientes

We are Machu Picchu bound! First stop: Ollantaytambo, where we would catch a train to Aguas Calientes, the town at the bottom of Machu Picchu. I think we were all a little bit excited, nervous, and maybe a little scared of our climb up Huayna Picchu the next day and apprehensive of Aguas Calientes. The small tourist town does not have the best reputation. Prices for everything are super inflated, yet most visitors are forced to pay them if wanting to stay close to Machu Picchu. Andrew had looked up places to avoid, questions to ask before sitting down for dinner, and we generally psyched ourselves up to be on guard for any and all scams upon our arrival. This is when travel wears me down. However, what we didn’t prepare ourselves for were all of the Incan archeological sites en route, surrounding Ollantaytambo, and along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. It turned my frown upside down and really helped to boost the excitement, outweighing the other negative feelings about the town and apprehension of our climb!

We caught a shared mini-van to Ollantaytambo early in the morning. It was a pretty beautiful ride through the mountains only lasting about an hour and a half. I believe Ollantaytambo is a fairly recent name for the town, in other words, not the name that the Incan Emporer Pachacuti gave to the royal estate that he had built in the center. During the Spanish conquest, Manco Inca Yupanqui, the resistance leader (after the Spanish Incan puppet leader) resided here. It’s all a bit confusing. If you’re interested in learning more about the Incans and the discovery of Machu Picchu, check out Turn Right at Machu Picchu. (Great recommendation, Michelle!) It helped put some of the pieces of the puzzle together for me and also made me realize I probably need to read some more books to understand it all…

Ollantaytambo is also one of the starting points for the Inca Trail. We would have loved to do the Inca Trail, but as it turns out, you need to book your tour six months to a year ahead of time and it’s ‘spensive! We’ll just have to squeeze it into our next year around the world. 

Ollantaytambo is small. One central square surrounded by a couple of cafes and tourist shops and that’s about it. We snuck up to the square to have a look around before it was time to get on the train, had a snack, some coca tea, and then hustled it back down to the train station where complete madness broke out. On our way onto the tracks, we passed the employees timecards. I was surprised they were just out in the open like this! They reminded me of a few old jobs I had where I had to punch in.

Ok, so maybe it wasn’t madness, but it certainly wasn’t anywhere near orderly. Once we got onto the tracks, we waited in line. Then had to move to the other side of the tracks for a train to pass through. Then our train (or so we thought what was our train) left. Then we got in line again only to be told to get in a different line by another Peru Rail employee. Madness. But once we got on the train, the ride was pretty gorgeous. The skylights totally helped aid in the experience. What a perfect way to see the countryside and roll into Aguas Calientes.

I didn’t realize until Momma joined us in Peru that I always sit by the window and Andrew always sits in the aisle. This is mostly so he has more legroom and works with me wanting to take pictures or video along the way. I’ve had to share the window seat with Momma throughout Peru, and I’d be lying if I wasn’t starting to get a little pouty about it. I finally opened up about it and she laughed at me, and then shared the window. I probably made everyone on the train nervous holding my DSLR out the window for half of the ride.

Aguas Calientes is as obnoxious as everyone says it is. It’s named for the hot water springs located around the city center, but we were told to avoid them as they have become dirty and overpopulated with tourists. Technically these days the city has been renamed Machu Picchu Pueblo, but no one uses this name. We dropped off our things at our hotel, run by someone who could have cared less that we were there, except when we handed over our money.

When we went out to walk around and eventually find something to eat, we had to constantly consult Andrew’s cheat sheet to see if we sat down at a particular restaurant, would we get ripped off or not. This is such an annoying way to try to enjoy a city in a foreign country and it angers me. If the city weren’t set up this way (to rip every visitor off) it would be more likely visitors would stay longer and enjoy the escape in the middle of the mountains, but noooo everyone gets in. sees Machu Picchu. and gets out. 

In case you find yourself in Aguas Calientes, copy Andrew’s cheat sheet before you go out for a bite to eat:

Always ask: No tax, no servicio, no nada mas? Otherwise, you might be lured into a restaurant with reasonable prices listed and then when you get the bill it’s suddenly triple the price because of additional fees they have added on without informing you.

Don’t go to:

-El Tunqui

-Pizzeria Amaru

-Apuss

-Chayna

-Apu Qoyllur Rit’i

-Qhawarina

-Hatun Runa

Maybe (a ripoff):

-Mapi

-Keros

-Rustica Fabrizzio’s

-Chez Maggy

Ok:

-Chullpi Machupicchu

-Inti House

-Canton Chifa

-Inka Wasi

-Pachamama Pizzeria

-Mama Angelica

-Kintu

-La Espiga

We ended up at a lovely Indian restaurant, Govinda, up the hill towards the hot springs entrance. The owner looked at Andrew like he was crazy when he asked “No tax, no servicio, no nada mas?” We figured it was a good sign and sat down. The food was good, the atmosphere was super calm- especially compared to the other restaurants lining the same street, and I can only hope other restaurants follow suit offering a straightforward menu, good service, and good food! On our way back to our hotel, we encountered these little ones who obviously spent the day climbing Machu Picchu and couldn’t walk any more. Probably not, but it was fun watching them sprawl out on this pedestrian bridge like they owned it. A few minutes later, their mom was reprimanding them and dragging them to one side- taking all of the fun out of it!

Day 367: Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca is the largest lake in South America. According to our guide for the afternoon, 60% of it is Peruvian and 40% of it is Bolivian. However, he assured us if we were to find ourselves on the Bolivian side of the lake, we would be told that 60% is Bolivian. While the lake itself provides some beautiful scenery, its popularity stems more from the people who live on the lake. Tours go daily out to man-made islands, known as the Uros Islands, and the natural islands, Taquile and Amanatani (if you have time). We opted for a day tour to see one of the Uros Islands and Taquile. It was interesting – a little Disneyland-esque at times, but beautiful and I was finally able to have some fun with my Polaroid camera again! Which may have been my favorite part!

Per usual, we were picked up early in the morning only to drive around the city for an hour picking up others at their respective hotel before we even made it to the boats. I’m all for a hotel pick-up, but after a year of driving around in circles to pick up everyone else, I don’t see what’s so bad about telling everyone to be at a specific place by a certain time. It would guarantee an extra hour of sleep (at least) for all! Once we got on our boat, we waited for about fifteen minutes before the tour operator boarded the boat explaining that we could get upgraded to a faster boat if we joined a more expensive tour. The only catch was that we weren’t able to discuss this upgrade with the other boat members. Great! Except, why weren’t we told upon booking that our boat was going to take three hours to get to the Uros islands in the first place? It was all a little strange and I couldn’t help but wonder what was really going on. But we got on the “faster boat” that looked remarkably similar to our first boat and we were soon cruising across the lake towards the Uros Islands.

A close friend had warned me about the islands, saying they were a little on the touristy side. Trip Advisor forums went one step further, equating the experience to Disneyland and even suggesting the islands aren’t really inhabited these days, and they are more or less set up for tourists. Especially those who are in the market for some “one of a kind” souvenirs to take home (cough cough… Mom. cough).

When our boat landed, we were immediately greeted by the women of the island and told to sit in the center of the island for a brief presentation. It was here we met the president of the island and we were told how the island was built (layers and layers of reeds), how the island doesn’t have any electricity (but does have some solar panels), and how if you need to go to the bathroom, you have to climb into a boat and go to another island 20 minutes away. It was then I realized that I probably couldn’t live on the Uros. I’d spend more time paddling to and from the bathroom than anything else! We were told that the 40+ islands rotate daily to receive tours. This is so they can go about their daily life during the days they don’t have visitors and to give every island an opportunity to make some money (to be blunt about it). This is completely understandable, but halfway through our presentation, two other boats pulled up and suddenly the little man-made island, smaller than a basketball court was inundated with tourists.

We were already part of a group of about 30-40 people. Once other boats pulled up and people were walking around us shopping, while we were trying to learn about the island completely transformed this “Oh, what a cool little island” into “Ohmigod I hate being a tourist.” We were then shuffled to the back of the island, presumably so the next group could have a meet and greet with the president. A giant reed gondola awaited to take everyone for a spin (for an additional fee). Think Venice, only instead of just you and your significant other on the boat, it was you and forty other strangers crammed together. It was something I didn’t need to do, and instead hung back to take some Polaroids and hand them out to the women (and children) of the island.

Once one of the mothers figured out what I was up to, she motioned for me to hold on and disappeared into one of the houses, returning a second later with different clothes for the baby. She changed her outfit, pulled all of her children together and then we took another picture. Then she set the baby down and asked for a picture just of the baby. It was a lot of fun (much more so than sitting on top of another tourist on the full gondola) and it makes taking pictures a much more interactive activity! I have to admit, I feel better about taking pictures when I’m able to give a physical print to the subject right away.

Afterwards we hung around waiting for everyone to finish shopping. Had it just been one boat full of people, it would have been great. But maybe because the island was still overwhelmed with tourists and I could easily hear an older American couple haggle- rudely- for a cheaper price when they could obviously afford the extra $0.50 equivalent made me ready to leave.

Of course, we all seemed to board our respective boats at the same time… I quickly climbed up to the roof of the boat to get a few shots of the island as we sped towards Taquile. Like clockwork, the women lined up to greet the next boat. I wonder how many boats land each day. In the hour or so that we were there, four to five boats had landed!

Taquile is one of the natural islands in the middle of Lake Titicaca. It was used as a prison during the Spanish reign and didn’t become the property of the Taquileños (people of Taquile) until 1970! There aren’t any cars, and no electricity on the island. It’s quiet and has some beautiful scenery- not only on the island itself, but surrounding it as well. We learned immediately that handmade yarn and weaving is a pretty big deal here. Nearly every woman we saw was spinning yarn, and nearly every man was knitting. The men wear special knitted hats to communicate if they are single or married.

While the textile industry is still huge, they make most of their money from tourism these days. 40,000 tourists visit each year! Our guide also informed us that the population is shrinking as many of the younger generations are leaving the island to go to school or get a job on the mainland where they can make more money than if they were to stay on Taquile. When we arrived to the main plaza, a photo shoot was in the making. I wanted to ask what it was for, but after hearing the photographers speak Spanish, I got a little shy about my shoddy Spanish skills and simply watched instead, jealous of their reflector. 

We ducked into the textile market full of colorful knitwear and woven goods.

Back out on the plaza, we took turns taking pictures in front of a sign reminding us of just how far away from home we are. Although, Andrew and I just might be closer than we’ve ever been on this trip!

These two little guys had trouble getting their drinks opened and asked Andrew for some help. When I looked over they were just sitting together enjoying the view. I had to take a picture… and then handed my camera off to Mom while I pulled out the Polaroid. At first they were a little confused- needing to reload the paper didn’t help matters. It’s also a rather slow camera. It’s not like a traditional Polaroid that spits out a photo immediately. It uses different paper, and while technologically impressive, it often requires a lot of “wait for it…” gestures and holding the camera up to a child’s ear so they can hear that something magical is about to happen. These two were pretty patient about it all.

After they asked for a second photo (one for each) they said something in Spanish that I didn’t understand. I looked at Andrew, and he didn’t get it either. We asked them to repeat what they said and another tourist passing by told us “They want a tip.”

“A TIP?” I looked at everyone surprised, even though this certainly isn’t the first time I’ve been asked for a tip for something or other on this trip. “But I gave you two photos! A gift! Why should I give you a tip?” I responded, in English, laughing. The other tourist rolled his eyes understanding my sentiments exactly.

We walked around the island, following a mostly stone path down the hill we had climbed up to the plaza. A few locals passed us by, or sat off to the side knitting, and asking for tips if you wanted a picture or two. We stopped at a small house with a large picnic table set up outside where we all sat down for lunch while we saw another presentation of how a plant was crushed into soap and then used to clean a dirty piece of wool. After lunch, their style of dress was explained to us and then we watched a small dance that was made adorable by the participation of an adorable little girl who was not afraid of asking tourists to dance.

After the dance, she was sent around with a tip basket. Everyone acknowledged and laughed about their most excellent business model, using her to collect tips that wouldn’t otherwise be given. When all of the festivities were over, we walked down to our boat and made our way back to Puno. I would have really liked to see Amanatani, the other, further island- but it requires an overnight stay because it’s so far to get to. It’s supposedly the least touristy island of the three- which made me want to see it all the more. I think the three (including the overnight) and Sillustani could have been crammed into two very full days, but we were already on a tight schedule and I’ll just have to save Amanatani for next time- with a side trip to and possibly through Bolivia!

Day 366: Our ONE YEAR trip-aversary at Sillustani

For the record, I’m simultaneously amazed and not at all surprised that we’ve made it one whole year traveling around the world. I recently asked Andrew if he could imagine doing this trip with someone else. We agreed that maybe we could do part of this trip with someone else… like for a month… maybe. But not the entire year. It wasn’t as exciting as our six-month trip-aversary, but spending the day at a pre-Incan burial ground (ok, it sounds a little morbid when I put it like that, right?) with my Momma and coercing Andrew to take a few celebratory jumping pictures was great fun. As you can see by the pictures below (Thanks Momma!) he wasn’t as enthusiastic about the idea.

In retrospect, I wish we would have made our Lake Titicaca plans immediately when we arrived in Puno- so we could spend two full days on the lake and it’s different islands… but we were all pretty worn out traveling to Puno and sleeping in the next morning was necessary. To anyone visiting Puno, I would budget three days- two for the lake (more if you want to sneak into Bolivia on the other side of Lake Titicaca) and one for Sillustani- that is if you’re into ancient burial grounds. It was interesting, but in all honesty, not the most interesting thing we’ve done in Peru so far…

Sillustani seems like it’s on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but it’s actually on a different lake (Umayo) about twenty minutes outside of Puno. There’s not a lot of information on the grounds itself and we probably should have organized a guide ahead of time, but it was nice to wander around on our own and take our time enjoying the weather and the surprisingly not very creepy atmosphere, given that we were walking through an ancient burial ground.

The tombs are giant stone cylinders called chullpas, built by (I think) the Colla people, who were later conquered by the Inca. Their stonework is more complex than the Inca, and Sillustani is the most preserved example of their work.

Momma was a little bit curious how big the entrance was in one of the chullpas. Andrew always tries to get me to climb into scary or awkward holes in burial grounds, temples, to which I of course say no to. Mom wasn’t scared and she snuck in before we could convince her otherwise. I’m pretty sure Andrew and I were in shock because I couldn’t stop documenting it and neither of them could stop laughing at her courage? stupidity? both? Perhaps you can see where I get my own courage? stupidity? both? from…

Back in Puno, we ducked into the cathedral. It was HUGE. The Cathedral Basílica San Carlos Borromeo (also known as Puno Cathedral) seemed have the same layout as many of the other churches that we’ve been in. Long. Dark. Made of stone. And this one was super cold. So cold, I had to duck outside to warm up in the sun until everyone else was ready.

Directly across the square, facing the cathedral is the number one rated restaurant in Puno. Mojsa Restaurant has a laid back atmosphere (at least during the late afternoon when we went for an early, light dinner) and some really great tea. Ok, the ‘mojsa tea’ was great the first time- so great, I wanted to go back for more…

I’ve found that the coca tea has really helped me deal with the altitude. Remember, Puno is higher than Cusco (and Machu Picchu). I’d get out of breath climbing up to our fourth floor hotel room. I’d wake up feeling like I had one too many drinks the night before, even though I hadn’t had any alcohol… I just didn’t always feel like myself and it would creep up on me when I least expected it. So when I saw ‘mojsa tea’ on the menu- a blend of coca powder and lemon (my favorite!), I was excited. After one cup, it left me feeling like I had about four cups of coffee in a row instead, and not a trace of any altitude issues. If you find yourself in Puno, stop by for a spot of mojsa tea- but make sure it’s super strong (lots of coca powder on top) and super hot. Otherwise, it won’t give you the extra spring in your step that you’re looking for.

Day 365: Chivay

Chivay was supposed to be the stopover, not the main attraction. Yet, I was delighted it proved to be anything but a stopover. Momma actually stayed behind at the bus pick-up until we realized she would probably enjoy the market and streets surrounding that were full of character. As much as I enjoyed the quietness of Cababanaconde, it was a little too quiet for me and lacked the character that Chivay more than made up for. We were only there for about two hours, but had a really great time walking through the market, eating sautéed alpaca (and what we found out was jello with cool whip on top), and photographing women with llamas while we waited for our bus to Puno in the afternoon.

On our way out of Cabanaconde it was hard to say goodbye to Colca Canyon and it’s surrounding fields despite being for the most part dried up during the winter months.

Once we got into Chivay, we were surprised to see these statues lining one of the main streets (just outside of the covered market). Some of them seemed very friendly and welcoming, but seriously, what is up with the dude in a mask who looks ready to come to life and decapitate me? It reminded me of some Mexican wrestling, but who knows if I’m anywhere near what he really represents!

I couldn’t resist these adorable ones eating ice-cream while I waited for Andrew to run back to gather Mom and our things. I tried to ask for permission and I think I was granted it, but the little one in the middle seemed perplexed. I only wished my Polaroid wasn’t buried in another bag so I could give it to him to give to his mother afterwards.

We wandered through the market, stopping to eat alpaca meat and buy only a few blankets, tablecloths, and scarves. The alpaca is slightly gamey, but good and with a squirt of lime, I highly recommend it. If nothing else, you won’t find a cheaper lunch otherwise! While Andrew and I sampled the street food, we lost my Mom as she ducked in and out of stores faster than we could take turns sharing our snack! We eventually found her again, helped pick out some gifts for some family members and continued walking through the market more for fun than for buying- at least, that’s what Andrew and I thought anyway! When we emerged, we found the most adorable baby lamb laying down in the middle of the sidewalk. Of course, we fawned over it (me and momma) while Andrew went in search for more street food to taste.

I asked how much he (she?) cost and tried to convey how much I wanted the little bundle of adorable (I mean, seriously, who wouldn’t?) but then explained that I didn’t have enough room in my bag. I think (key word: think) everyone understood and was amused by my willingness to take the little thing with me… if only I could (and Andrew… and my mom would have let me!)

On our way out of the market area, I also couldn’t resist taking a photo of this woman and her llama. Usually I try not to participate in photos for profit- something that we’ve encountered often during this trip, but I couldn’t help it after I saw a few tourists take a photo with the llama and then not give the woman a little tip. It’s a no brainer that if someone is dressed up or standing with an animal that they are there to make some money. It felt a little disrespectful watching others take photos but then walk away pretending they didn’t know any better. I took a few photos, disappointed the woman wouldn’t at least look at me during the process, but then put a couple soles in her hand as I shook it, thanking her for her time.

There were a couple of options getting from Chivay to Puno. We decided to take the slightly more expensive (and more comfortable) option after our unfortunate longer than anticipated adventure from Arequipa to Colca Canyon a couple of days before. A “3M” bus boasted a more touristic ride from Chivay to Puno with a few stops at the highest point in the Andes, a lake full of flamingoes, and at the highest lake in Peru. It was worth it- not for the stops, but for the comfort and the coca tea we were promised at the rest stop. I don’t normally get car-sick, but as I quickly found out, I do get altitude-car-sick. It’s not fun. Fortunately, coca tea helps.

When we stopped at the highest point in the Andes en route to Puno (and Lake Titicaca) my head hurt and I was feeling a bit squeamish, but got out to take a look around thinking the fresh air would help. We were greeted with a cold fresh air and surrounded by little stacks of rocks that we were told were prayers built by the Peruvian people. All of them were built as high as they could go because the closer to the sky they were, the more likely the prayers were to be granted.

We stopped off briefly at the highest lake in the Andes (so we were told) with just enough time to take a picture and then climb back on the bus. Everyone talks about adjusting to the altitude in Cusco, for the climb to Machu Picchu, but they seem to skip over the fact that Puno is higher than Cusco, and that Cusco is higher than Machu Picchu. They also seem to skip over the fact that driving from one of these places to the other is the worst part. My advice? Drink a LOT of coca tea. Take an asprin. And be prepared to feel like you’re slightly hungover.

Day 364: Colca Canyon

Colca Canyon is where the condors roam. Unfortunately for us, I think we timed it all wrong. In the middle of winter in Peru, farmers are burning off excess brush to make more room for future farming. I don’t think the condors were keen on the smoke anymore than we were. Despite waking up early and being one of the first at the viewing platforms, the condors didn’t get close and it was a little bit hard to see what all of the fuss was about. We heard that condors flew over other viewers and were awestruck by how large these birds are… We simply didn’t have the same experience.

I entertained myself with the beautiful local women selling snacks, jewelry, blankets, and other crafts instead. That is, until one of my lenses stopped working. Now, keep in mind that I’ve already sent two lenses home that have stopped working for one reason or another. Momma actually sent one away for repair and was able to bring it with her to Peru. I should have been optimistic about the timing that she had brought an additional lens for me just in time for another one to go kaput. But I wasn’t. All I could think about was how expensive it was going to be to repair or replace this professional lens… and how badly I wanted to have it for Machu Picchu. I was crushed, to say the least. The irony of this third lens breaking on this trip was that I’m pretty sure it happened when the camera bag I had my mom bring – was dropped – with the lens in it. I tried to make do with the wider lens, or trying to manually adjust the zoom despite the sticking. Tears escaped my eyes throughout.

The worst part about being so crushed about something when you’re traveling is that there’s this very strong struggle inside of you willing you to let it go and enjoy where ever you may be at the time. When you have a bad day at home, you can kinda scrap the day, right?

I like the show, Suits, and got a kick out of Lewis saying “I need a day.” and leaving the office. You can’t do that when you’re traveling. You can take a nap, and then you have to brush yourself off and see what you want to see before you leave the next day.

Which is exactly what I did- or at least tried to do, and we all walked through town and towards another viewing area of Colca Canyon from just outside of Cabanaconde. On our way to the viewing, we saw some farmers using a telephone pole to help them put a yoke on some cattle. It looked a little dangerous and I thought it was wise of them to use the telephone pole and some ropes to keep them safe.

The view was vast. That little line snaking around the mountain on the opposite side, that’s a road. Would you want to travel on it? The city of Cabanaconde looked a lot bigger from this vantage point than it did when walking the small streets within. We walked past an arena on our way back and wondered if bullfights still go on today or if it’s a thing of the past.

When we got back in town, Momma went to a mass that was being held in the town’s church. She said there were only two other women at the service. Afterwards she had a nice conversation with the pastor of the church who held the mass.

“Oh did he speak English?” Andrew asked. Mom laughed.

“No.”

And then we might have laughed, imagining how the conversation sounded. To give you an idea, Mom’s favorite words in Spanish are “No necesito” and “hija” and “paRdon” pronounced en français. Granted, she probably knows more Spanish than I do (before we enroll in classes after she leaves) but it makes for some really entertaining conversations with the locals.

I had my Polaroid on me and was able to snap a picture of this little girl with her baby. She was the sweetest thing, and was quite unsure of what I was up to, until I handed her the picture. Once she got a good look at it, she was pretty excited and later asked me if I could take another. Unfortunately she might have been at school the next morning when we walked past again… and I didn’t see her to take another.

Day 363: Arequipa to Cabanaconde

Our plan was to leave Arequipa around 10:30 or 11:30 in the morning. We were told there was a bus then. That is until we got to the station, where we found out there wasn’t a bus at that time (no reason was given why not) and we had to wait four hours for the next bus. Momma assured us before she came that she wanted to travel just like we do. Well, this was a perfect introduction to what travel for us can be (and has been) like. A few hours behind schedule, we arrived in Chivay to a mob of tired and cold backpackers who had their own annoying bus story. Momma had wanted to get off the bus to take a picture, but when she saw the mob outside, she stayed put. It was a good thing she did because many ended up standing or sitting on laps as we made our way to Cabanaconde. We arrived after dark, dropped our stuff, and grabbed dinner: an alpaca pizza. Because, isn’t that what everyone does when they arrive in a teensy town on the edge of Colca Canyon?

Day 362: Arequipa & The Santa Catalina Monastery

We arrived in Arequipa in the wee hours of the morning, climbed into a taxi, and then climbed into bed until we were a little more rested to explore the city. A lot of people get in and out of Arequipa, which is what we did since Momma was with us and we had packed her two weeks full of places to be. We later found out that Arequipa is where it’s at if you want to study Spanish on the cheap. Much cheaper than Cusco- and we thought we were getting a good deal there! So, if you’re interested in studying some Español, head here! Staying not far from the square, we wandered through it before spending the majority of our day at The Santa Clara Monastery. I found the town incredibly photogenic, and despite being a huge tourist hub, aside from being inside the Monastery, for the most part we were the only ones (or part of the few) travelers and tourists milling through town.

The main square was absolutely buzzing with people. It was a gorgeous day, so it was hard to see why you wouldn’t be out on the square catching up with friends, feeding the birds, or getting your picture taken in front of the fountain. People were everywhere, but not in an obnoxious way. Everyone mostly kept to themselves and despite so many people, the square was so huge that it accommodated everyone rather well.

The thing to do in Arequipa, is visit the Santa Catalina Monastery, originally built in 1579 for the Dominican Sisters. In a word, it’s huge. And beautiful. We read that back in the day, it was really prestigious to enter the monastery. Only women from upper class Spanish families could enter, granted their family paid a handsome dowry for their admission. According to Wikipedia,  The dowry expected of a woman who wished to enter as a choir nun–indicated by wearing a black veil—and who thereby accepted the duty of the daily recitation of the Divine Office, was 2,400 silver coins, equivalent to about $150,000 (U.S.) today. 

Can you even imagine that happening today?

Walking through the beautifully painted corridors and perfectly manicured courtyards, it was obvious that there had to have been a LOT of money circulating through to maintain the property. We stepped into a lot of cells and my mom wondered how many nuns lived in each cell, but I think it’s more likely that they each had their own individual cell- and often times, their own kitchen area as well!

Again, according to Wikipedia, In 1871 Sister Josefa Cadena, O.P., a strict Dominican nun, was sent by Pope Pius IX to reform the monastery. She sent the rich dowries back to Europe, and freed all the servants and slaves, giving them the choice of either remaining as nuns or leaving. 

At its height,the monastery housed approximately 450 people (about a third of them nuns and the rest servants) in a cloistered community. In the 1960s, it was struck twice by earthquakes, severely damaging the structures, and forcing the nuns to build new accommodation next door. 

Today, about 20 sisters live in a section of the monastery that is not available to the public.

As always, Andrew thinks that I won’t post pictures of him photo-bombing… I don’t know why he hasn’t learned yet. Maybe it’s because he not-so-secretly loves the attention? Momma is a much prettier model (below). I made her work it in the middle of the monastery, which made her giggle (a lot).

Some of the kitchens appeared to still be in use. I can’t imagine that they are, but lots of grass (or brush?) sat next to the fire pit and made you wonder why… It wasn’t made obvious (at least not to me) where the sisters who are living there currently were residing. Do they wander through the monastery when it’s not opened to the public? Do they use these older kitchens for fun? Do they sun themselves in these courtyards when no one else is around? I know I would!

My favorite part of the monastery was this bright orange section (for lack of another explanation). It was so bright and cheerful it almost felt like no other place we’ve been. The blue walls often remind me of the blue cities we’ve visited in India and Morocco, but orange is new and I love it!

At the far end of the monastery there was this pretty fountain lined with huge clay jars of some sort. I almost broke my camera and my foot stepping down to get a picture from the far side of the fountain. Andrew panicked. Luckily nothing (camera nor body part) was hurt!

Momma walked back the way we came. Can you see her sitting in front of the doorway above? Andrew and I walked around the fountain and saw another outdoor corridor to walk down. She was a little surprised when we hollered for her from behind the chain that separated us. Andrew collected her and the monastery sprawled on. At this point it almost felt like it was never-ending, but maybe we were just slow (not surprising) because we noticed one of the guides we denied upon entry was talking to her second group of tourists by this time.

In addition to many of the smaller individual kitchens, there was a huge communal kitchen with multiple fireplaces and one well. Below is what the same window/wall looked like from the outside. I wonder why most of the interiors weren’t painted? 

You could see one of the volcanoes from the view from one of the roofs. And finally, after a few long rooms full of religious art, we were back where we started.

Walking around town, I became slightly enamored with the piñaterias lining the streets. An entire store devoted to piñatas! How awesome is that? Once we arrived in the main market, I could tell momma was a little bit squeamish at the smell of raw meat sitting on open tables. This was not a tourist market. This was a market for those who live in Arequipa. This was my kind of market. I tried to explain it to my mom. She was skeptical and antsy to get out of the meat aisle. The fruit aisle was more of her cup of tea (and absolutely beautiful). When she found a purse for a ridiculously cheap price, I think she came around.

Thank God for my go-go-gadget-arms to get this shot! We were on the second floor, but there was a high fence surrounding the walkway. I handed my camera over to Andrew to get this shot from above of my favorite aisle in the market. Frutas!

Day 361: The Nazca Lines

The Nazca Lines are ancient pictures (basically) that have been etched into a plateau that is about fifty miles long just outside of the little town of the same name, Nazca. It’s believed that the Nazca people created these lines between 400 and 650 AD, which is pretty incredible that they are still intact until you take into consideration the remarkably dry stable climate that has preserved the Nazca Lines almost perfectly. For roughly $80.00, you can take a short (about 40 minutes) flight above the lines. It was incredible. I’m not sure what was more exciting, being in a tiny airplane for the first time, or looking out over the Nazca Lines in absolutely perfect weather (we were told conditions may not be the greatest), or being able to share the experience with not only Andrew, but my momma as well!

To view the Nazca Lines, you have to be at the airport early to book a flight, pay the airport tax, and then wait for the weather to be good enough to view the lines below. We read that some people waited for several hours and even had to leave the airport and return the next day for better conditions. Given our track record, I thought we were going to be those people… But we didn’t end up waiting long and in the middle of a National Geographic like video we were going through security and climbing into our six-seater.

After about ten minutes of flying, our co-pilot started telling us which side to look and began pointing out geoglyphs (fancy word for design) in the shape of a human figure, monkey, hummingbird, fish, a tree, and more.

It might not look as incredible in the pictures, but it was really amazing circling over them in the small plane simultaneous to the co-pilot telling us to get ready for the next design on the other side of the plane.

It’s debated what these pictures meant. Obviously it had to have been a lot of work, so they must have been important. In the video we watched, we saw a huge need for water and when looking up the Nazca Lines after our visit it’s believed the lines might be connected to the search for water. Other possibilities include irrigation and even astronomy.

We made one pass over some ancient aqueducts, over the city, and then before we knew it, we were back at the airport. Unfortunately, aside from the video that we were shown while we waited for the weather to cooperate, there really wasn’t much more information on the lines, nor the Nazca people in Nazca. There wasn’t much to do, either. We walked around the city after lunch in search of ice-cream and had a hard time finding that!

Day 359: Look who I found in Lima!

Once upon a time, when I lived in Prague, my Momma and I planned to meet in Paris for a weekend. My flight was scheduled to arrive into Charles de Gaulle before hers. I told her I would meet her at her gate. And then my flight was late, or her gate was changed, and my Czech cell phone didn’t work in Paris… Something ruined the plan and we spent three hours in the airport searching for each other. Needless to say, I think Momma was a little nervous something similar would happen again when I told her we’d meet her at the airport in Lima. Fortunately, she was waiting in the arrivals lounge right next to our driver holding a sign with Andrew’s name on it. Three hours later, we were leaving our guesthouse after a much needed nap and I was encouraging her to climb up on the first llama we saw for a photo (and video) opportunity!

Friends told me to get in and get out of Lima. I’m not positive if I agree. While it really doesn’t seem like there is a lot to do (and there is an awful lot of traffic) I wonder if this city has more to offer under the surface. We also later heard that there are some really quality museums that we missed out on. If you’ve been- what do you think? Does it deserve more time than one night and two days? I did really enjoy the Historic Center, but didn’t quite understand why so many churches charged an entrance fee. We managed to duck into a few free ones though!

Momma made a friend en route to The San Francisco Church. It was here where we were faced with a huge line of people wrapped around the outside of the church. We think it was the feast of St. Augustine, but I’m not quite sure what was inside this church to attract this big of a crowd. It was rather impressive watching so many pilgrims pay their respect. Somewhat reminiscent of the Hindu temples we visited in India- obviously not the religion, but the excitement displayed.

On our way back to our guesthouse, we walked past a group of women arranging flowers to sell to those visiting the church. Momma walked extra fast past the street performer who was still on the same street we walked through earlier, and after getting directions, we were sitting down for our first plate of ceviche. (YUM!)