post office

Day 199: Mtwara and the post office

Waking up somewhat rested, in one piece, felt pretty wonderful. Before we fell asleep last night, Andrew was nervous that my headache was a concussion. I assured him it was just a result of an empty stomach and the stress from the bus crash. Fortunately he forgot about it and I woke up just fine (aside from the bruised arms and legs) in the morning.  His leg looked like it was already on the mend, and we decided we may as well head to the post office to mail our Masai shukas home before we continued over the border and down into Mozambique.

We caught a dala dala into Mtwara and walked to the post office. They gave us a box and after we had packed it, they instructed us to go to customs. Sweet.

“Where is customs?” we asked the clerks. They pointed towards the back door. We walked outside and asked the guard where customs was. He pointed towards the next door.

If only it was going to be that easy.

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We walked into what appeared to be some kind of customer service office for a phone company. With our box of Masai shukas in hand, we asked for customs. Fortunately, one man seemed to figure out what we were looking for. He walked us back out of the office, back through the post office and out the front door, then he pointed down the road and gave us instructions to drive down the street.

“No car.” We told him. He looked confused, but carried on with instructions to turn right and customs would be on our left. We started walking, with our (slightly bigger than a computer paper) box down the dirt road. We dodged semi-trailers that were stuck in mud in the middle of the road. We maneuvered through the drivers that were trying to figure out a way to dig their loads out.

Finally, around 4:30, we walked into the customs office. The clerk asked us to unpack our box while he checked the list of what we had written down on the customs form. He told us to pack it back up while he grabbed a stamp and then asked where our tape was.

“Tape? What tape?” Andrew asked, befuddled.

“May we use your tape?” I asked. It was an office. A customs office. Surely, one equipped with tape.

“Tape? I don’t have tape. Where is YOUR tape?” He asked. Andrew and I gaped at each other. We had just walked over a mile on a dirt road in the middle of this tiny town in Tanzania with only fifteen minutes to get back to the post office to mail our shukas home.

“You don’t have ANY tape?” Andrew asked.

“It’s ok. Andrew, your emergency kit. The duct tape. We have tape.” I said, while Andrew pulled out the emergency roll with about a foot of duct tape left on it. I slapped it on the box and the customs officer stamped every corner of the box. The box was practically falling apart, but we got our stamps and then ran out the door hoping to flag a tuk-tuk down to drive us back to the post office.

Fortunately, it was still open, and it sold rolls of packing tape. Unfortunately, Tanzania does not offer surface mail and it’s airmail is EXPENSIVE. More than $100.00 expensive. We shook our heads “No” and took our box of shukas down to the EMS counter and got a better deal. Although still expensive, we figured it was better than lugging it across the border and through Mozambique with us.

“You know what, chances are, we get home and give these shukas out to our friends or family or whoever, and they’re going to be like… Great… a tablecloth from Tanzania… and we’re going to feel like idiots for going to so much trouble to get them, mail them home, and give them to our loved ones who are going to care less about them.” I ranted, supremely jealous of others we’ve met traveling who made the executive decision at the beginning of their trip not to get any gifts for friends and family back home.

“From now on, it has to fit in our pocket… if we get anything for anyone else.” Andrew declared. I agreed, after all, he did say “if we get anything for anyone else,” that excludes me, right? Right.

Day 21: about this dragon…

When we left Korea, I shipped three years of my life home in boxes of all sizes. Big boxes of bedding, shoes, books I couldn’t part with, even bags of 쌈장 and 된장 (Korean bean pastes) I couldn’t foresee finding in Kentucky and living without. (Not having immediate access to Korean food has been a struggle for both of us already.) When we left Hoi An, a few days ago, we sent a box home of things we brought, or already bought, and didn’t need, and Andrew’s new suit. Not a problem! My dragon, on the other hand proved to be a big. big. problem.

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When we got to the Post Office, I left Andrew to write out postcards and walked up to counter 7, where the man eyed my dragon suspiciously and tried to fit it into a box. “Too big!” He declared. “Cannot send. This is the biggest size box you can ship to USA. Cannot send. Go to counter 8.”

Counter 8 turned out to be the DHL counter. They told me I needed a box first. They sent me back to counter 7 for a box.

Counter 7 shook his head at me. “Too big! Cannot send!” he barked. I shook my head to assure him I understood, and asked for a box. He eyed me suspiciously, but took my dragon, and put two printer boxes together to make a new bigger box, fit the dragon right in, and demanded the equivalent of $5.00 for his handiwork.

Back at Counter 8, they shook their head and said it would be very expensive. Wrote down $211.00 on a piece of paper and said it would take 3-5 days. I asked for something slower (cheaper) and they sent me to Counter 6. Counter 6 sends me back to Counter 7. Counter 7 barks at me again, “Too big! No! Cannot send! Go Counter 8!” I go back, to Counter 8. They look at the box again, then do some calculations again, and then they write $593.00 on the same piece of paper they wrote $211.00 on previously. I look at them like they must have made a mistake. I asked for something slower. They informed me they only did express shipping. I pointed to $211.00 and asked what happened. They pointed to $593.00 and waited for me to magically understand. I told them I could not pay $593.00 and plopped my box down next to Andrew, who was – throughout this whole ordeal- still sitting in the middle of the three counters writing out postcards.

“It’s not possible. I can’t send it.” I told him, close to tears, again. (Have I mentioned my emotions have been a little heightened this first month of travel?)

He gets up, takes the box to Counter 6. Gets sent to Counter 7, where the same postal clerk looks at me like I must be missing something in the head. “I’m sorry! Too big! Cannot send!” he tells Andrew. Andrew tries to explain how light it is and asks again why they can’t send it. Counter 7 ignores him. Andrew doesn’t budge. I try to hide, until I eventually see Andrew get sent to Counter 8. The girls at Counter 8 have disappeared. I convince Andrew that it’s not possible, and we take our dragon to the agency where we booked our bus tickets to Cambodia.

The girls at the tour guide agency demand to know what is in the box. I say “Dragon!” and I do the dance. They shake their heads and say we have to talk to the bus driver, maybe the box is too big, and we cannot take it with us. I make the executive decision that I will wear the dragon head on the 5 hour bus ride if I have to. Andrew makes the executive decision to get a motorbike so we can pile as many boxes as we’d like on the back. We walk up to the bus drivers. There are at least five of them. They all look at me suspiciously until one asks what is in the box. “Dragon!” I said again, and again, I do the dance. “Ohhh…” and they respond in Vietnamese, and do the dance. “Yes!” I cry, relieve to see them smiling. One of them demands $10.00, and I say “No way!” and they laugh, repeated “No way!” to each other and put the dragon under the bus.

“Maybe we should just take the dragon with us around the world.” I suggested to Andrew once we got on the bus.

“Maaaybe…” He replied, unconvinced.