Selcuk

Day 264: Selcuk to Istanbul

We debated whether or not going to Izmir was worth it… and then we heard from our friends Josh and Leanne (remember them? Our friends from our Tanzanian safari a few months ago) that they had just arrived in Istanbul and would be there for a few days.

Meeting up with new friends is just as good as meeting up with old friends. We decided to skip Izmir and headed back to Istanbul to not only stay/visit with our friends, Juliet and Daniel, but to hang out with Josh, Leanne, and their friend Margarita. We are lucky, lucky ducks.

Unfortunately, heading back to Istanbul meant another 12-hour bus across the country.  

It should have been 9 hours, but as we’ve found to be the case in Turkey- the drivers enjoy their breaks, and they enjoy them often. We stopped a lot. Often for 30-40 minutes. We reminded each other we’ve survived worse and focused on the positives: We each had our own seat all to ourselves. Our seats reclined! Multiple stops meant multiple opportunities to go to the bathroom. The bathroom was not on the side of the road in front of fellow passengers. There were even doors and tissue within the stalls! And snacks to be purchased along the way did not consist of burnt birds on a stick.

I know you’re jealous of how low my expectations have become.

Our bus dropped us off across town from where Juliet and Daniel live. We didn’t get in until nearly midnight. Walking into their apartment felt like walking into my apartment in Seoul after a week or two out of the country. It felt like home, or as close as home has felt since this trip began.

Day 263: What separates the good and the bad guesthouse

“It’s ranked number one according to TripAdvisor.” Andrew said as we waited to be picked up from the bus station in Selcuk a few days ago.

“It has a good atmosphere.” He said a few times. Finally, I gave up trying to figure out exactly what that meant, and asked,

“What does that mean. What kind of atmosphere?”

“There’s a pool, it’s supposed to be really social… a good place to meet other travelers.”

Off we went, and at first it seemed lovely. It did have a nice pool with big pillows and lounge chairs surrounding it. One guest lounged in a hammock, others sipped beer while playing pool or ping pong. It appeared to be one of those places that we have come to look forward to.And perhaps if we haven’t been traveling and staying in guesthouses around the world for the past (nearly) nine months, I wouldn’t have found anything to complain about. Fortunately, we’ve stayed at some really awesome places -some even being hostels that turned out to be amazing and much better than any guesthouse or hotel. Unfortunately, these places have raised the bar, and like I told another couple who asked me what I thought of this particular ‘Getaway:’ “It’s not the best, but it’s not the worst place we’ve stayed at.”

Either way, we have been more inclined to slow our roll lately and our plans for the day involved doing absolutely nothing. We lounged. Andrew read. I edited photos. It was awesome. But back to the point about this place: I wondered what all of the fuss was about on TripAdvisor if this place was ranked #1. I had a look and noticed right away that most reviewers had only reviewed a handful of places. This sometimes means someone who owns the place created a TripAdvisor profile and reviewed a few places (including their’s) to boost their own ranking. It’s unfortunate, but usually we (Andrew) can spot the fake reviews.

Because Andrew enjoys using TripAdvisor to look up places to stay in advance, I tend to be the one to review them after we’ve stayed. I’ve reviewed well over fifty guesthouses/hotels/hostels/restaurants since our trip started. And because we stay in a different place every few nights, I’ve come to appreciate the little things. Somethings you might laugh at, thinking how crazy would a guesthouse be to not provide a room with walls that went up to the ceiling- but I assure you, it has happened before. They might also be a bit silly to someone who only travels for one or two weeks at a time, like who needs wi-fi when you’re on vacation? -but they’ve become all kinds of important to me! What separates the good and the bad guesthouse is a fine line of knowing what good hospitality is and knowing that the devil is in the details. During our walk to Ephesus yesterday, we talked about this and I made notes in my head to share on the blog.

Here’s what separates a good and bad guesthouse:

1. a clean, well-lit room with an en-suite clean, well-lit bathroom: One that includes a fan or air-con/heat if needed at no extra charge. One that doesn’t offer a “double” bed by way of pushing two twin beds together. One that has walls that go all the way up to the ceiling. One that has outlets to charge camera batteries, computers, and i-phones. One that has a luggage rack so your backpack isn’t on the floor. One that has lights and possibly a nightstand next to the bed. One that comes with bath towels. One that has hot and cold water.

2. Quiet rooms. Noisy hallways are the worst. I’m not a morning person, and if I’m not staying up late with other people, there’s a reason I’ve gone to my room early!

3. Maid service. Yes, I can make my own bed but I’m staying at a hotel! The beauty of staying at a hotel is that someone else makes your bed for you!

4. If you say you have wi-fi, provide wi-fi. And make sure it works. In all areas.

5. Breakfast included: With Filtered coffee! No instant coffee please! Don’t be stingy: If you serve toast, serve butter. And please let there be a variety.

6. If you have a bar, and you have a happy hour at your bar, then please have reasonably priced drinks. A happy hour limited to overpriced cocktails does not help me when all I want is a beer!

7. Engage your guests, don’t just push tours on them, or try to sell them overpriced souvenirs.

This ‘Getaway’ was nice. Upon first glance it seemed like it would go on the “good” list of guesthouses that we stayed at. But it only satisfied a couple of my requirements in the end and it quickly dropped down to the “meh” list of places we’ve stayed at in the past nine months. I always feel bad giving a poor review on TripAdvisor, but I like to hope that they use my negative review to make a few changes and improve their facility or their customer service for future guests. Before traveling with Andrew, I was more inclined to show up in a city and check a few places out in person. Andrew is a much more prepared traveler than myself and likes to “reward” those with good reviews, hoping it improves service and expectations all around.

Day 261: Ephesus

Ephesus was an ancient Greek, then Roman city just outside of Selçuk in Turkey. We climbed a trail behind our guesthouse and then followed the road down to the back gate of the ancient city. It was calm and quiet until we arrived at the gate. Ephesus was packed. We were warned that cruise ships unloaded at nine, but it seemed that regular bus tours unloaded around ten thirty, when we arrived. We tried to wait out the groups, sitting in the theater, people watching. But it didn’t seem to matter, groups and groups of people continued to stream in, so we eventually got up and made our way through the surprisingly big city!

A woman at our guesthouse encountered a snake along the trail the day before, I think Andrew was relieved we only encountered a little turtle instead.

There’s a house of the Virgin Mary atop the hill outside of Ephesus. It’s believed she spent her last days there. We didn’t climb up the hill, but stopped at this statue for a picture. We had to wait for a few groups of American tourists to take their picture in front of the statue in certain groups of friends, then family, then friends AND family. They offered to take a picture of me and Andrew in front of the statue. I politely declined, insisting we already had a few pictures together…

This is where we sat for awhile. If it wasn’t so sunny and hot, we probably would have stayed longer. I love sitting and soaking up my surroundings and if there are many, I try to embrace the tourists around. There were a LOT of Americans and because we’ve encountered so few Americans on this trip, I wondered if this was their first time abroad (for some) and why Turkey (for others). I marveled at how easy Americans are to identify. We are a loud people. We tend to have a presence of making ourselves seen rather than allowing ourselves to see. We wear shorts. We wear flip flops. I don’t know if any of this makes any sense, but these are things you pick up on about “your people” in my case, my fellow Americans when you’ve been outside of America for so long.

Despite the heat and the throngs of tourists (still something we are adjusting to after being in countries with sparse tourism and/or few visitors) it was incredibly interesting to walk through. And as always, made me wonder what life must have been like when the city was in its heyday. For me, it’s the ancient times that seem so glamorous especially when the grandeur of the city is so immense like it was in Ephesus.

The most impressive part of the city was without a doubt, the library. I overheard a tour guide say that it has been rebuilt, but it seems to have been rebuilt rather well – without the use of obvious concrete like we saw in a few other parts of the ancient city.

Even when we walked out, it was through more ruins that you simply couldn’t believe were still standing and added to the size of the ancient city.

The ancient city also held the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World). This wasn’t within the current day grounds of Ephesus and we had to walk a few kilometers back towards Selcuk to see the singular remaining column of the ancient wonder. It was one of those “Wonder of the Ancient World… Check” moments and then we weaved our way back out to the road, dodging tour buses until we were back on the highway deciding to walk back to our guesthouse.

Our guesthouse was two kilometers outside of the city. We had already walked to Ephesus, then to Artemis… Walking all the way back to our guesthouse probably wasn’t the best idea, but we made it and then collapsed, yet again outside of the pool until dinnertime.