443 Days Around the World

Day 401: Studying Spanish at Sundown

Studying Spanish at Sundown Inn has not exactly been the perfect experience. This has really has bummed me out, because the family that runs the place is pretty great, the other students have been fun to get to know, and we were so looking forward to hanging out in one place for more than one week. But, my teacher, Luis keeps reading tons and tons of grammar lessons to me straight out of the book while I furiously copy down verbs and take notes on the many (many many) different irregular conjugations. The only speaking practice I seem to get is when I initiate a conversation by asking him random questions about himself and/or Ecuador. And don’t even get me started on my suggestion to read Aesop’s Fables to get some reading (and more speaking) practice in. Other students raved about their time and their teachers. But as the week went on, it became clear that we weren’t as lucky as the other students who were ecstatic with their time and Spanish progress at Sundown. To make up for our less than satisfactory lessons, Andrew and I hit the books hard every day after classes in an effort to walk away with something even if it was done by our own volition.

The biggest lesson that I seemed to be learning was how good our classes and teachers were at San Blas Spanish School (and cheaper, too). Speaking from experience, I’m completely familiar with teachers (cough, sometimes me, cough cough) showing up to class completely unprepared. However, I’m also completely familiar with how easy it is to plan a lesson and teach off the cuff. Maybe our teachers at San Blas planned every lesson perfectly before class. Maybe they didn’t. But they always came to class prepared with a plethora of materials. Experienced teachers have (or at least should have) a wealth of materials to pull from, be it vocabulary flashcards, grammar worksheets, finger puppets, you name it, an experienced (and might I add caring) teacher has it.

Luis didn’t even bring his own pen (or paper for that matter) to class.

“Maybe it’s because we’re used to teaching in Korea, where our students never brought pens to class, so we HAD to bring our own (and more) to classes…” Andrew suggested, but I wasn’t buying it. Especially after I found out Luis has been “teaching” for two years! WHAAAATTT???

Even though I’ve taught English as a foreign language for six years, I didn’t give too much thought to what I wanted out of my own Spanish lessons. This was a mistake. I naively thought everyone who taught a language taught like me, or like Andrew, or like our teachers at San Blas… Maybe none of us are perfect, but at least we’re all prepared to teach a student who knows nothing or a student who thinks they know everything. I didn’t realize studying at San Blas was exactly what I wanted until three days into studying at Sundown, when I realized studying with Luis was exactly what I didn’t want.

When we checked out, I talked to the manager about my disappointment. I even messaged the owner privately (in response to his response to my mostly very positive review on Trip Advisor – again, mostly because I liked the family so much) with suggestions for how to improve the quality of their lessons. I asked Andrew if I was being mean to Sundown. He thought about it for a minute and said I was just being honest. But between me and you (and Andrew) – I was brutally honest. Like so honest, that it’s quite possible the owner probably won’t appreciate my… honesty.

The thing is, I really liked Sundown. I wanted to love it. But I didn’t. Both the hotel and language lessons could have been awesome. Like the “I’m never leaving here ever!” kind of awesome. Maybe being honest with Sundown could help them become awesome, so other people would never ever want to leave. One can hope, right?

At least, that’s what I hope.

Day 400: Canoa’s “downtown”

Spanish was starting to turn into someone getting paid to read a grammar book to me. It made me a little nervous, but being a former language teacher myself, I planned on asking for some more conversation the next day and studied all afternoon except for the couple of hours Andrew and I closed our books and walked into Canoa for some snacks. We went into a corner market in search of popcorn kernels, and discovered ‘popcorn’ is not a universal word. The poor girl looked at me repeating “corn?” like she had never heard of it before.

“Maize… con pop pop pop pop pop” I tried again.

“Ohhh canguil” She answered with a smile, and quickly retrieved a small bag of popcorn kernels from under a pile of bags of rice.

Obviously, I have more studying to do. 

Day 399: a room with a view in Canoa

You know what’s nice? Waking up in a room with a view in Canoa, and being able to walk out of your door to said view (above). We joined some new friends for breakfast, met our newest Spanish teachers, and got to work. This time around, Andrew and I were learning one-on-one with different teachers on the beach. It’s my first time learning a language like this, that is, if you don’t count my failed attempts to study Korean with friends in coffee shops… I was a bit apprehensive about it, but Luis (my teacher for the week) was nice, and the first day mostly felt like a big review of my week in Cusco. Sundown Inn provides (bootlegged photocopied) books that I was pretty satisfied with from the start. We spent most of the afternoon studying, Andrew in our room, and me in the hammock outside bundled up in the yak wool scarf. 

Day 398: Puerto Lopez to Canoa

Our latest bus journey was supposed to be super smooth. We woke up early to make sure it would be a two bus adventure instead of three. We even arrived at the second bus station and jumped on our next bus with relative ease. Perhaps I jinxed us when I said “Wow, this hasn’t been bad at all!” to Andrew as we pulled out of the station. And then several hours passed, and we still weren’t where we were supposed to be. On a map, it’s approximately a three hour journey. Factor in a bus change, and a few road-side pick-ups (of passengers) and sure, an extra hour or even an hour and a half seems reasonable. But SIX AND A HALF HOURS?!? No, six and a half hours from Puerto Lopez to Canoa was not reasonable. By the time we got into Canoa Andrew sat down at the first restaurant we saw while I went in search of a baño. Somehow, I ended up in someone’s outhouse in their backyard (with their permission) while Andrew ordered fish and rice for us to eat around the corner. It was nearing dusk by the time we got to our beachfront hotel and we were too tired to do anything other than jump in the ocean to cool off and then immediately lay down before our next round of Spanish classes started in the morning. 

Day 397: Whale watching off the coast of Puerto Lopez

Whale watching has been on my to-do list for quite sometime now. And once I found out it was a possibility to do on this trip- in Northern Peru, or in Ecuador, I got excited. I may have even started singing Will You Be There in my head every time Andrew and I discussed when and where we were going to go whale watching. Once we decided we were going to go whale watching off the coast of Puerto Lopez, I may have wondered what the chances were of a whale breaching over me standing on top of our boat with my arms outstretched while water rained down over me. Although we were on the tail end of the season, other travelers we had met had good luck seeing some whales and we thought it was worth a try. The humpback whales stop along the coast of Ecuador between June and September to mate and give birth before heading to the polar waters. So we hoped to catch a few loiterers on their way out. We also decided to take a tour of the Isla de la Plata. It’s known as ‘The Poor Man’s Galapagos’ so if we didn’t see any whales, at least we’d see some other animals and birds on the island!

When I first heard that the whales mate and give birth during that time period off the coast of Ecuador, I wondered how long the gestation period is, thinking it had to be impossible for an entire whale to be made within a couple of months. According to Wikipedia, Females typically breed every two or three years. The gestation period is 11.5 months, yet some individuals have been known to breed in two consecutive years. The peak months for birth are January, February, July, and August, with usually a one- to two–year period between humpback births. They can live up to 48 years.

That answered a few questions.

Our guide also told us that if the whales were moving fast, they would need to surface often for air. If they were hanging out in the water, chances are we wouldn’t see them that often. On our way to the island, we saw one whale surface and could see water being blown up a couple of times, but then the big guy disappeared.

As our boat pulled up to the island, sea turtles swam around in the bay reminding me and Andrew of our sea turtle experience in Zanzibar. Now, I’m all for hiking and trekking through natural habitats, but had I known what (little) we were in store for, I would not have paid extra to take a tour of the Isla de la Plata. Birds are cool, but only seeing two species of birds when we were expecting more, and other animals as well, was a bit of a let down. Here’s some Booby pictures for you nonetheless. I feel it’s my duty to mention that halfway through our trek on the island, Andrew leaned in and whispered “I never thought I’d hear this come out of my mouth… but I’m a little tired of all of the Boobies.” I couldn’t have agreed more.

We walked to a few high points of the island, dodging Blue-footed Boobies all along the trail. They like to nest in open areas. The island was mostly covered in scrub brush and thorny looking plants and a few trees. The only open areas were the paths that were cleared for visitors. We had to walk in single file past each nest and weren’t able to stop. Some Boobies would get scared, and you could see their throat fluttering, pulsing even, but they would never leave their nest. They were interesting to see, but between them, and the numerous Frigatebirds on the island simply didn’t leave me begging to stay on the island.

After we walked around the island, we were served lunch (sandwiches and fresh fruit) and then immediately after we were finished eating, it was time to snorkel. Like our guide never had a 10-20 minute time-out from swimming rule after eating or something. Andrew and I both got in, but my first mask was broken and then by the time I got a good mask, I realized the water was too cloudy to see anything anyway and it was time to go. (I now look forward to our future shorter vacations where I can more easily bring along my own snorkel gear!)

I worried slightly that we were just going to head back to Puerto Lopez, and not get a chance to look for any more whales. But we headed further away from the island (and the mainland) in search of more! We saw quite a few, but right as half of us turned to sit down, the other half of the boat gasped as the whale we were just following breached in the distance. Of course, I missed it. Later, another whale seemed to follow right alongside our boat for awhile, but the pictures simply didn’t turn out. The most I was able to capture was several backs protruding out of the water and fins that were playfully slapping the water. It was like some of the whales knew we were there, knew we were watching and wanted to show off. Another couple of travelers we met, got really lucky and saw the same whale breach several times. They too, said they thought he (or she) was showing off.

We probably didn’t see much, compared to how much we would have been able to see had we been in Ecuador a couple months ago. But it was breathtaking nonetheless. These whales are just so enormous that it makes you wonder how it’s even possible for something so big to exist in the first place. And so peaceful. They swim about, look like they are playing, and if you’re lucky enough you get to see it all. Amazing. This earth is simply amazing.

Day 396: Olón to Puerto Lopez

It’s so interesting to travel through these quiet, little coastal towns in Ecuador after traveling through bigger tourist attractions in Peru. Since arriving in Olón, and traveling from Olón to Puerto Lopez today, it’s as if we hit the slow motion button or something similar… The bus to Puerto Lopez was relatively quick and painless and when we arrived and walked on the quiet beach we were slightly surprised at how deserted the town felt. The town was quiet. The streets did not feel well traveled. Every other building was empty, closed, or crumbling down. More restaurants and bars (than in Olón) sat on the beach, and although most were open, few patrons were seen. We walked up and down the beachfront street, had some ceviche that made us miss Peru (where the servings are bigger, spicier, and generally much more flavorful), and we made a reservation for a whale watching tour in the morning!

Day 395: La Rinconada, La Entrada + Montañita

As much as I love Olón, we decided to spend the day checking out neighboring towns to the north and south along the coast. We stood out on the main road, flagged a passing bus down, hopped on and headed to La Rinconada first, then La Entrada, and then passed back through Olón to have dinner in Montañita.

First stop: La Rinconada. Our guesthouse provided a lovely little write-up about what to do around Olón. It mentioned a lovely restaurant with a view in La Rinconada. It didn’t mention that to get to the lovely view you had to walk a couple kilometers from the main “highway” to the coast. It also didn’t mention that the restaurant might be closed, as it was when we visited.

Second stop: La Entrada. The bakery in this little town more than made up for the misadventure in La Rinconada. We quickly discovered the bakery’s specialty was cheesecake. Different flavored cheesecakes. We got one slice of strawberry and one slice of oreo. I’m pretty sure if there was a competition with The Cheesecake Factory, well, it would be a pretty tough call.

Third stop: Montañita. It was like we entered a completely different country. There were people everywhere. Food and souvenir stalls lined the streets. And it was clear that the longer we were there, the more the town was gearing up for an active nightlife. A much more active nightlife than the one in Olón. We had a drink, had dinner, and then headed home to the very quiet streets of Olón.

Day 394: Olón

Arriving in Olón and walking down dusty streets where children were playing, women sat behind tiny corner store counters, and men did construction work was (after yesterday) quite simply, lovely. Olón is so tiny that when searching for it online, only a handful of guesthouses appear in the results. Montañita is it’s more popular southern neighbor famous for surfing. In other words, it’s much more touristy and is now known for a much louder nightlife than little Olón has to offer. I was much happier with our quiet little town, and our oceanfront view complete with a hammock outside of our room.

We walked down the beach and then back through town, which didn’t take long. Most of the restaurants on the beach were closed, and it was just as windy and even cooler than it was in Mancora, Peru a few days ago. (Perfect weather however for snuggling up under my yak wool scarf in the hammock for awhile.)

We found a bakery that served up some cookies that were possibly the closest to homemade chocolate chip that I’ve had since this trip started. We sat in a park where a few teenagers practiced break-dancing and then wandered back through the quiet streets towards our guesthouse.

Day 393: Peru Ecuador border crossing

Border crossings are the worst. Border crossings when the warnings are not to cross overnight by bus because you might get gassed and robbed are especially the worst. Border crossings when your only other alternative is to go during the day by bus, and spend the night in the most dangerous city in Ecuador, Guayaquil, are even worse. Yes. Worse than the worst. It would be an understatement to say that Andrew and I were not looking forward to the Peru Ecuador bus ride, border crossing, nor the night in Guayaquil. And then, when we were chastised by the Peruvian passport control agent for calling him out on over-charging us for our visa over stay… well it just got… you guessed it… worse.

We weren’t planning on overstaying our visa in Peru, but then we decided to study Spanish for a week in Cusco and found out we only had to pay a dollar for each day we overstayed. Not a big deal. We only stayed five days over, so we would only have to pay $5.00 each. But when we arrived at the Peru Ecuador border crossing at Huaquillas, the agent decided we had to pay $6.00 instead. We pulled up our calendars, counted off the days, thinking it was a simple mistake and he would agree to charge us the correct amount. He didn’t agree, and when I asked why he was charging us more, he got angry.

Not only did he get angry, but he told us to go back to the bank (20 kilometers back in Peru) in town to pay the amount we wanted to pay, instead of “trusting” him and paying more. Not possible, I don’t think our bus driver, nor the other passengers would have indulged us in saving two dollars. However, had we had our own car, you better believe I would have gone back into town to pay the lesser fine, simply out of spite. He tried to pull the same scam on another person, except this person must have had his own car. He walked out of line and headed towards his car instead of forking over the extra money (for the agent’s pocket) and crossing into Ecuador.

We arrived in Guayaquil right as it was getting dark, and anxiously hoped for a late bus to Olón. Not possible. Instead, we headed to the food court where we were able to hop on an open wifi signal and book a room for the night. We ate, and then busted a move to a taxi that dropped us off at our hotel where we stayed put. We didn’t want to chance walking around in the dark, and someone coming up and putting us in a choke hold until we passed out so they could rob us before we came to. I wish I was joking. This warning actually made me nostalgic for India, where one warning was “Watch out for someone throwing poop on your shoes, so they can clean them for a fee!”

Day 392: One last day in Mancora

Ready for us to go yet? Tired of Mancora? While I wasn’t tired of the freshly pressed strawberry juice, and the warm afternoon sunshine, I was starting to get a little itchy to go myself. As much as I have enjoyed Peru, I am looking forward to seeing and experiencing a different, new country. We spent our last day lounging by the pool. I occasionally ducked back into our room to see if pictures and videos had any success uploading to the internet. (I didn’t really.) We got one last ceviche (Peruvian style that is) and one last order of calamari before we packed everything up to catch our bus across the border into Ecuador in the morning.

Day 391: More of Mancora

More of Mancora… means more of us doing not a whole lot in Mancora. I give you the other side of the street. The one street that runs through town. Technically, I guess, you could say there are a couple more that connect the main street to the beach… but they aren’t big, sometimes they aren’t paved, and most of the time cars are not allowed on these little streets leading to the beach! The beach was super windy, again, which was perfect for the kite-surfers flying across the water. Unfortunately, we’re not certified (yet) to kite-surf, so we stuck by the pool falling asleep in lounge chairs or extra wide hammocks if the sun wasn’t too terribly strong

Day 390: Mancora

There’s not a whole lot to do in Mancora. There’s our hostel with a pool. The beach. A handful of restaurants and souvenir shops. And that’s about it. Somedays I find myself recording “a day in a minute” for the sake of the project, not exactly for the sake of anyone who might be following along. This is one of those days. We slept in late. We lounged by the pool (it was less windy than the beach). We walked through town for fresh fruit juice (strawberry is my favorite here). We were lazy, and it was awesome. I’m pretty sure I’ve said this before, but what might be boring to you is probably awesome to us because sometimes we’re simply in need of a couple of days like this.

Day 389: Hello Pacific!

The latest overnight bus landed us in Mancora, a small beach town in Northern Peru this morning. Neither of us slept on the bus very well and were exhausted when we arrived around six in the morning. We slept for most of the day, except the hour or so we went to the beach to have a late lunch. It’s surprisingly cool on the beach and more windy than we would have liked, but it was nice to see the ocean again, especially considering that this time it’s the Pacific!

Day 388: Bboys in the streets (of Trujillo)

Our last afternoon in Trujillo was spent walking around the city. A few blocks away, I saw these two busting a move in the crosswalk during red lights. This isn’t the first time I’ve seen some street entertainment during a red light, but it was the first time I was able to get a few photos, and video of the action. The boys were really sweet, telling me to wait for the next light when they were going to flip across the street for more dancing, and even jumping up on a nearby street sign for a pose or two.

Afterwards, we headed to El Palacio Iturregui, a nearby colonial house to check out the interior (or the interior that we could check out). Most of the ground level doors were open, and featured some impressive rooms, but we weren’t allowed to go in them nor upstairs to check out more. We tried to find another, however failed when we couldn’t find it, and settled for a snack before our overnight bus to Mancora instead.

Day 387: Chan Chan

Chan Chan is the largest city in South America that is known to have existed before any European settlement or influence began. It was built by the kingdom of the Chimú around AD 850. I read that date, and almost cannot even wrap my head around it actually existing so long ago, moreover still being (somewhat… mostly…) intact since then! It’s an adobe walled-in city that once held 30,000 people. Today, the walls still stand largely to the lack of rain in the area- much like how the Nazca Lines have managed to stay intact as well. We took a public bus out to the site and got dropped off in what felt like the middle of nowhere. We chuckled a little bit at how strangely familiar we are with this scenario in a completely foreign country. “Well, at least it’s in the middle of the day, and we know where to wait to take a bus back to our place…” Andrew said as we thought back to the night we were dropped off in the middle of nowhere in Mozambique.

A taxi driver got out of his car parked near what we guessed to be the entrance to the ruins. He told us that he could drive us to all four different sites around Trujillo, but we weren’t sure we were up it, and told him we’d check out Chan Chan on our own first. Little did we know it was about a 1-2 kilometer walk from the main road. At least we had some banana chips (my favorite snack since this trip began) and water with us. We probably should have gotten a guide, or even one of the books that we saw one of the guides reading to those she was leading around… But we didn’t. Now that we’re nearing the end of our trip, we’re content to explore on our own and look things up afterwards if we’re so inclined (which I usually am).

What I was most interested in were the people of the Chimor Kingdom. According to some online research after our visit, I found out that they ruled the northern coast of Peru from 850 to 1470. They were the largest kingdom of the “late intermediate” period, in other words, the largest in the time period right before the Incas ruled. I think (I’m not sure at all) that the Incas incorporated some of the Chimu metalwork into their own.

After we walked through the site, (which took about an hour or so) we walked back out to the main road and waited for a bus back into the city. It’s a little like hitch-hiking, only you flag down a speeding bus full of passengers. It’s cheap. It’s easy. And it makes for excellent people watching.

Day 386: Trujillo

Despite clearly planing our trip to hop so many countries, and see as much as we have this past year… Some days it clearly catches up to us and we’re simply tired, overwhelmed, or in need of a slower day (and at least one soft serve ice-cream cone from McDonalds). Today, in Trujillo was one of those days. We arrived in Trujillo early in the morning, and thankfully were allowed to check into our (very) modest room immediately. Most people nap in the afternoon. Our naps are usually between the hours of 6:00 and 1:00 in the morning and very early afternoon. It’s become almost routine. We indulged in a longer nap than usual before walking around town, an early dinner, some ice-cream, and an early night in.

While I wouldn’t change a thing about how and where we’ve traveled this past year, I might not do it quite the same way next time. Yes, we’ve already discussed next time. You are welcome to roll your eyes and think we’re crazy. We roll our eyes, often at each other – and we think we’re crazy – quite often. However, aside from knowing I’d like to change up our next jaunt around the world, it really burns my britches when other travelers (especially those who are on a different schedule, have a different budget, or even have different goals) make backhanded compliments like “I don’t know how you travel so quickly!” or ask questions like “Are you actually staying in one place for more than a couple of days?” and “Don’t you get tired?”

Instead of kicking them in the shins, while they are sandwiched in between their backpacks, I generally smile and try to explain that it’s simply what I wanted from my trip around the world. What I really want to say is usually saved for Andrew’s ears only. He humors me (or tunes me out, I really haven’t been able to discern when he does which) while I lecture the air in our room for the night about how my fellow travelers should know better than to be judgmental of anyone who simply wants to see the world, regardless of how they do it! Really, sometimes I just want to say:

“The only thing worse than a judgmental person is a judgmental traveler, and that judgmental traveler is you!”

Too harsh? Maybe. But, my point is this: Every traveler is different. Every trip is different. We’ve traveled so quickly this past year because it’s what we wanted to do this time around. We do actually stay in one place for more than a couple of days, but sometimes we don’t, and we’re ok with it. And yes, of course we get tired.

Do you know one traveler who doesn’t get tired ever? No, I didn’t think so.

When I get tired, I take a nap. When I get overwhelmed, I order pizza and watch a movie (or several episodes of American tv) in my hotel room – unless we’re in Africa and I watch a movie – if we have power – without the pizza. And when I need to slow my roll (like today) I walk around for a couple of hours, maybe take some pictures, maybe not, and then (especially if it’s not the most exciting city in the world- like, maybe Trujillo) I call it a day.

Day 385: Ica to Trujillo

On the road again! Just can’t wait to get on the road again! Yay! Another long day and overnight on a bus for us! There really isn’t much to do in Huacachina other than sandboard – and in all honesty, we were anxious to get to the coast and relax on a beach for a few days. We could have split up the trip, but we decided to push on through from Ica to Trujillo. And so we did, stopping shortly in Lima, and then continuing on our way. 

Day 384: Sandboarding in Huacachina

Not many people can say they spent the first year – the entire year – of their thirties traveling around the world. I am one lucky, very lucky girl. On Day 19, I turned 30 in Saigon. Today, I turned 31 in Huacachina. My only wish for this birthday was to not visit a war museum. I wanted to do something fun, like sandboarding in Huacachina! Which is how we ended up on an 18 hour bus ride from Cusco to Ica a couple of days ago. Well, that, and we had to start making our way up north someday, somehow…

Dune buggy and sandboarding in Huacachina is more fun than you think it will be. About 12 of us climbed into a dune-buggy an hour or so before sunset with an older man who clearly loved his job (driving visitors around in the desert at incredibly high speeds). He flew across the desert, going up and down dunes so fast, it felt like we were on a roller-coaster. And then, just like a roller-coaster comes to a smooth stop in the end, so did our driver pausing to let us out for a a few photo opportunities, and then a few more times to let us sandboard down some steep, some not so steep, and some I-never-knew-a-sand-dune-could-be-this-steep sand dunes.

Everyone had trouble sandboarding down the dunes standing up. We could stand up, but many of us were inching down the hill because the sand just wouldn’t cooperate. In the end, everyone, well, most everyone laid down on the their board and suddenly we were flying down the dunes. It was a lot of fun, but the boards aren’t exactly the safest, and the metal bolts holding the shoe straps to the board cut up my arm a little bit. Our last dune was the steepest and fastest. I hit a few bumps going way too fast and went airborne more than once. I can assure you, sand is a lot harder than snow, and it wasn’t the most comfortable feeling in the world. Huacachina is in need of some saucer sleds. By the end of the excursion, everyone was covered in sand, some more than others, like the dude pictured above. My favorite part about this picture is that I unfortunately have no idea who this guy is! He kindly allowed me to take his portrait, and was excited to see his picture on the blog. I think I told him I would email him a copy as well, but then after we dispersed for some much needed cleaning up, I didn’t see him again! After sandboarding down four or five dunes, we made our way back (again at high, very fun speeds) to the oasis. The sun was setting and it was the perfect ending to our stopover in Huacachina and a wonderful birthday.

Day 383: Huacachina

Huacachina is a teensy town just outside of Ica. When I say teensy, I mean it’s a handful of hotels, hostels, restaurants and homes built around a natural oasis in the middle of the desert. It’s become pretty popular with tourists for the dune buggy rides and the sandboarding you can do in the desert surrounding the town. We had planned on going for a dune buggy ride this afternoon, but Andrew and I felt like we had just gotten off of a serious bender (symptoms of altitude sickness include feeling like you have a hangover). We went for a little walk around the oasis and halfway around (it’s not very big. at. all.) I had to sit down. Three quarters of the way around, I had to lie down. So instead of spending the afternoon crashing around the desert in a dune buggy and sandboarding down steep dunes, we crawled in bed and didn’t come out until the next morning. You win high altitude, you win.

For some reason, I really liked these (what I’m guessing to be) old-fashioned personal changing rooms. Obviously, they are no longer in use, but I thought they had so much character and that it’s a shame they weren’t maintained. That didn’t stop the locals from enjoying the “beach” and the water though! It’s not necessarily advised to go swimming in the oasis, and there weren’t any foreigners indulging in the activity… but Peruvians were all about it. Forgot your sandboard at home? Don’t worry, this little guy will rent you one of his!

day 382: Cusco to Ica

Surprisingly, Andrew nor I (nor my Mom for that matter) really suffered from any serious altitude-sickness during our time in Cusco. That is, until today. For some reason, the 18 hour bus ride from Cusco to Ica took both of us down. And we went down hard. The bus ride wasn’t nearly as miserable as it sounds. I mean, it wasn’t in Mozambique juggling babies and live chickens, waiting for the mud to dry so our bus could get towed out of the ditch it was stuck in on the side of the road… So, despite our big reclining seats, personal televisions, and even some weak wi-fi signals at times, we just weren’t feeling so well. I told myself I would study Spanish, but I wasn’t feeling up to doing anything other than sleeping or watching really terrible movies dubbed in Spanish… which is kinda like studying. At least the view (and this is when we were stopped in traffic for 45 minutes) was beautiful for most of the ride!